Welcome to 1StGenCivic.com home!Welcome to the on line community of First Generation Honda Owners. Our beautiful antique Civics and Accords, Preludes range from the first 1973 Honda Civic to 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978 and 1979; 1200′s and CVCC models. We take pride in showing off our labors of love. Our numbers are small regionally but as a global community we can stand out! So take a tour of our site and feast your eyes on our vintage Japanese vehicles. Owners of other classic Honda’s such as first generation Preludes, second generation Honda Civics’ and S360, S500, S600′s, N600, Z600, Spex Elf kit car and more of the Honda 60′s cars are welcome here too. Get helpful information on tuning and technical data and specifications, custom bodywork, engine swaps and our helpful members will help you on your way to customizing your ride if that your wish.. Find pages of brochures, resources of books for repairs and guides for do it your self, swap and sell your parts.
- First Generation Honda Civic
- For Sale New BC Coil Overs
First Generation Honda Civic Engine SwapThis is by far 1 of the cleanest/mental 1st gens I think I've seen (Garage R)
- K20 Powered 1979 Honda Civic
370% More Power: K20-Powered 1979 Honda Civic
This 1979 Honda Civic was the subject of a now six year old build in which it was transformed from a clean but tepid 70k mile automatic donor into the 260 HP, K20A powered screamer shown here. Built in Florida and the subject of much chatter around the time it was being put together, it’s somehow found its way Europe where it is offered with what’s said to be only a few hundred kilometers use since completion. Find it here on Auto Scout 24 in Bleiswijk, Netherlands for 15,900 euros (~$19,445 today).
Photos all appear to be from a previous Super Street magazine feature and 71 page-long build thread, and seeing as there’s no word on how, when or why it was exported it’d be nice to see some snaps of it in front of a canal or windmill.
Build quality seems to have been extremely good with little regard to expense, and it’s almost certain that the asking price is less than what the previous owner spent on parts and fabrication alone. Check out those big intake trumpets hiding behind the grille.
A theme of tasteful restraint continues inside, where a virtually stock-looking interior is given away only by an aftermarket shift knob and leather upholstery with OEM stitching on factory seat frames. Even a standard, Civic RS steering wheel is used, and though fuzzy as photographed we imagine a tachometer may have been relocated to behind one of the factory placed, center dash auxiliary gauge bezels.
A sub-firewall and partially hidden plumbing allow for a sanitary engine bay but won’t make wrenching any easier. Power comes from a Honda K20A2 twin camshaft pulled from an Acura RSX Type-S, though thanks to upgraded internals, valve train, large bore individual throttle bodies and a standalone, programmable ECU, power is now quoted as a believable 260 HP—likely north of 8k RPM. The RSX also donated its 6-speed gearbox, and hopefully it retains that car’s wonderfully slick and precise shift feel as adapted here.
Wilwood discs and calipers should offer adequate stop to match the nearly 400% power increase over stock, while suspension runs custom built coilovers. 195/34-15 Toyo Proxes are mounted to 7” wide, zero offset banana spokes, and though probably a touch low for ideal functionality there’s nothing else we’d change besides dialing in a bit more ride height. Here’s a before shot of the donor.
We’ve followed this car for years now and are interested to see it offered half way around the world, particularly as Civics are associated more with retired school teachers in Europe than a young enthusiast following like here in the US. We bet it ends up back home—either Stateside or in Japan–sooner than later.
Builder katch24 from FL
Hondata K-Pro managment
Hasport engine mounts
RYR custom header
RYR custom exhaust
Burns Stainless muffler
Bosch fuel pump
OBX individual throttle bodies
K-Tuned pulley kit
Driveshaft Shop 2.9 axles
More details here
What is a 1200
- What is a 1200
Considered the "1200" because of the engine size
Civic debuted in 1973 that achieved more than 40 mpg on the highway with dimensions with a 86.6-inch wheelbase and 139.8-inch overall length. Powered by a 1170cc EB1 all aluminum engine except for the cylinder liner, with the 2 speed Hondamatic or 4 speed standard transmission made this quite the economy car to drive. In 1974 the engine grew to 1237cc EB2 and grew 146.9-inch in length. The cylinder head is aluminum with a cross flow design, intake ports on the back and exhaust on the front side. This design generally produces more power than others with both ports on the same side.
In 1978 the cylinder head (EB3) was redesigned with larger intake and exhaust valves and larger straighter intake & exhaust ports including a deeper combustion chamber with domed pistons. This engine design lends is self to high performance modifications. This design has won many racing championships including a great Canadian driver Jacques Villeneuve or American driver Adam Malley still racing his today.
How to identify a 1200:
-1200cc engine, designated EB1,EB2, or EB3
-Engine will only say Honda on the rocker cover
-Hose for air filter goes to passenger side fender (if it's still stock)
-Water pump is on the front drivers side and alternator is on the back
-Fenders shorter in length than the CVCC
-2 spoke black steering wheel
-Hondamatic or 4spd transmission Standard 1200's never received a 5spd transmission
Only the Canadian 1978-79 Special X version received the 5spd transmission
CODE: Select all
Year/Model Motor CC Bore Stroke HP TQ Compression 73-74-1200 EB1 1170 70mm 76mm 50 @ 5k 59 @ 3k 8.3:1 74-77-1200 EB2 1237 72mm 76mm 50 @ 5k 60.5/65* 8.1:1 78-79-1200 EB3 1237 72mm 76mm 50 @ 5k 67 @ 2k 8.1:1
74-76 1200= 60.5lb-ft @ 4k, 77 1200= 65lb-ft @ 2k
-73-79 Chassis code was designated SB
-74-77 1200: EB2 motor had 2mm larger bore increasing displacement and power slightly
-78-79 1200: The EB3 was very different from the previous years. The most notable differences were the domed pistons and the new head (dished combustion chamber and larger valves).
-73-79 Civics did not have trim level specifications but were differentiated by their motor types
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CVCC means Compound vortex controlled combustion.
The CVCC engine debuted in 1975. Offered alongside the standard Civic engine, the 53-horsepower CVCC engine displaced 1,488 cc and had a head design that promoted cleaner, more efficient combustion. The CVCC design eliminated a need for a catalytic converter or unleaded fuel to meet emissions standards. (Nearly every other U.S. market car for this year underwent the change to exhaust catalysts and the requirement to use only unleaded fuel.) Due to California's stricter emissions standards, only the Civic CVCC was available in that state. A five-speed manual gearbox became available this year, as did a Civic station wagon (only with the CVCC engine).
A CVCC engine has a special cylinder head. The CVCC head uses a 1977 CVCC Wooden Wheel stratified charge combustion chamber. A stratified combustion mixture is richer at the sparkplug and much leaner at the main part of the combustion chamber. The rich mixture is easily ignited by the sparkplug and this initial flame will ignite the remaining leaner mixture. The CVCC head uses a pre-combustion chamber that is about the size of a thimble. The CVCC carburetor is actually two carburetors in one, a lean part and a rich part. The lean part feeds the main combustion chamber and the rich part feeds the pre-combustion chamber. The rich mixture in the pre-combustion chamber is ignited . A "flame hole" in the pre-combustion chamber allows the pre-combustion flame to blow across the regular combustion chamber and ignite the lean mixture.
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The RS is the ultimate factory Civic.
- What is RS
Dubbed Road Sailing, it was a more performance oriented civic opposed to the standard economy-boxes we all know. It was released with an 1170cc EB1 motor pumping out 70hp compared to the 50hp of the standard model. Engine modifications included twin Keihin carburetors, a freer flowing exhaust manifold, longer duration camshaft (15 degrees), domed pistons (bumped compression up to 8.6:1), and strengthened crank bearings. Handling was increased with a set of stiffer springs (30%), shorter stiffer struts and 13" wheels wrapped in 155-80-13 tires. The wheels were black with a polished lip and had a red "H" center cap- this is where the red Honda "H" started. Besides the RS badge on the front grill other exterior options included flared fenders, fender mounted rearview mirrors, and a slightly different bumper assembly. The RS's were only released in warm red/orange paint schemes. The predominantly black vinyl interior included a wooden steering wheel and shift knob, center console, grab handles, a mechanical tachometer graded to 7k rpm, and a center auxiliary pod with fuel/temp gauges and an air vent. The US gauge pods merely had the gauges for fuel and temp.
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Keep It SimpleThe philosophy at Honda's engineering department has always been, "Keep it simple'.' Sometimes it's more difficult and requires a lot more ingenuity to keep a design clean and simple rather than doing things in a complicated
- Keep It Simple
way. The Honda Civic 1200 and the Civic CVCC are both good examples
of clean, straightforward styling.
Everything on the car is there for a definite purpose. And what you don't see, the engine and chassis parts were all designed with the same goal in mind.. ."build it right, but keep it simple'.''
The sporty Z600 coupe was introduced in the US in 1971 with a total production of 40,586 sedans and coupes were sold here. Approximately less than 2-1/2% remain today of that number of which most were sedans.
- Honda Z600 Coupe
The 2door Z600 hatchback originally had a 345cc engine in the Japanese market, a more robust 599cc engine was squeezed in for the European markets. It came in basic colors of primarily orange, yellow, olive green and blue. The power plant was a Air-cooled, two cylinder SOHC aluminum engine, this gas miser came through during the oil crisis of the 70’s giving the owners a excellent fuel efficient car, it was rated to get approximately 40mpg while it only held 6.9 gallons of gas.
The Honda Z600 was built on a 123in x 51in chassis and approximately 51in high with a Curb weight of 1312lbs. Given it’s small size it was found to still give reasonable comfort to the driver and front passenger. The back seat would be described as storage only because of the little wiggle room in the back. This car had some interesting advances like retractable seat belts and a in dash seat belt warning system, front wheel drive and power assist brakes.
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Firstly, the Civic 1200 engine is a very strong little machine which has high rev capability. To exploit this some good cheap modifications which can be made easily are the fitting of a sports exhaust and perhaps a Weber carburetor. The sports exhaust is easy enough, with a set of extractors, a hotdog and a turbo tailpipe should give you a bit more power by freeing accumulation of exhaust gases. Genie make a good tailpipe, the hotdog can be bought pretty much anywhere. As far as extractors go, well in Australia there is a header pipe made by Hurricane, as far as I know this is all there is for the Civic 1200.
- More Power
Installation of a Weber is where real performance comes from at this level, note that this is not really effective without a decent exhaust system. We have used two types of Weber, the best seems to be the 32 DGV model which is an aftermarket carburetor used on just about everything up to 2 Liters. DON'T believe anyone when they tell you this is the wrong carburetor for a little Honda, from my experience so called experts haven't a clue about the capabilities of these cars! On my own Civic I have a 32 DIR 21 model which comes from a Renault 12, I think my a father picked it up for about 40 $AUS from a wreckers.
Fitting it is pretty easy: Tear off the old carburetor and air filter. Get an adaptor plate, Lynx make one for a Datsun 1200 for about 25 $AUS, that is the one to use. Since Dattos use the same Hitachi carburetor, obviously this will work. Get another air filter, we have tried lots of tricks here but the best seems to be the RamFlo type filters, once again they cost about 25 $AUS.
Increasing the output
- To swap or not to swap
If you own a first generation civic and require more power an engine swap is the easiest method. The quickest and dirtiest method is to drop an accord or prelude motor of the same series i.e. E prefix; an EK 1800 motor works well (Japanese import) this has an iron block and makes the nose a little heavy. ER TURBO from Japan is the pick of the bunch. The ER is a CVCC motor and only a 1200, it is fuel injected and puts out about 100bhp standard. If you remove the restrictive Catalytic converter (must be removed any way for fitting) a less restrictive pipe will allow the engine to breathe more easily and you will get approximately 14psi of boost standard. If you wish to fit the series 2 ER turbo you have to modify the plenum chamber as it is a little tall. Another good conversion is ES/ET (1800/2000). This requires a few mounting modifications but gives you awesome throttle response (twin carburetor) and a very strong motor and 5speed (huge input shaft) which wont break. Alternatively you can do up a 1200 to give 100-120 easy hp by using an EB 2 block, EN crank, rods and pistons, bore it out about 10thou, shave the head. This motor is now almost a 1500 within the 1200 block. Use the cross flow EB2 head, get the twin carburetors released on the civic RS (Japanese import) and while your at it fit the factory twin pipe extractors (run the primaries for about 1m before collecting into a 2 inch pipe). Also get hold of the standard civic RS 5Sp gearbox if you can this is a close ratio box (designated GB-) or the Next generation 5sp (GN) box. Make sure you get the motor balanced and your distributor advance curve altered a bit. This will give awesome revs, great power and it all looks totally stock under the hood.
Errol's' build theoryThe early civics (really all Honda's had a overheating problem's) with the thermo sensors going bad in the radiator or (even the thermostat) head and the fan doesn't come on and you overheat (crack or warp a head) or blow a head gasket. Now depending on your time and money, if you have both! and another car to drive) pull the engine and transmission (if you live in "the city" and don't need a fifth gear, keep the 4spd. otherwise get a five speed from a 80 civic 1300 that shows a GJxxxxxxx on the serial number 'tape' down by the shifter cable bracket) Try to find a early 80's 1300 engine for the rotating assembly (crank/rods/flywheel) have a 'good' machine shop to bore/hone the block for oversize pistons and pressure check the head for cracks. If good, have them pocket port and 'deck' it and a good 3 angle valve job. Get a NEW camshaft (and check the rockers for bad wear, replace) or have yours reground to the specs you need-- (another thread) don't forget to get new rod bolts also!......Take time and put it all together slow checking and cleaning everything and put the drive train back in. Try and find a Weber carburetor (32/36) and adapt it to the stock intake. Check the distributor and get a CRANE XR 700 universal electronic ignition from JC Whitney and replace the points check the vacuum advance can on the distributor, get the timing right and see if it starts!....NO it's not that easy! That's just the engine! and I'm running out of room. You can email me for more confusion if you want. Expect to pay around 700-1000.00 (DON'T CHEAT YOUR SELF ON CRAP PARTS, if done well it's going to run for another 20 something years!) Now watch, here they come!
I would use a Pertronix Igniter to replace the points with, from Summit and never change points again.
The Idiot's guide to motor swaps! Justin
Okay here's the low down..
For the civic 1200 chassis, the easiest swap is the D series single camshaft motors.
You can go with pretty much any year. The most desirable would be to go with a '92-'95 D16Z6 mated to a '88-'91 civic transmission( you go with this transmission due to the fact that it's cable and not Hydraulic like the '92-'95)
1. Strip the engine bay of all parts (I.E.: Engine/transmission wiring harness ,brake booster/master cylinder etc etc)
2. I start off by removing the cross member/sway bars/tie rods.
3. I then proceed to trim and shave the battery tray, the pinch molding below the hood latch, the front upper radiator support.
4. Next step is to bring the motor and transmission in and test fit to see where the inner frame rails need to be shaved/massaged. (see pictures of Peter's Hybrid)
5. I then proceed to build the new mounting plates to support the motor. (I always start with the driver's side and then the transmission mount)
6. Shave the lower lip of the steering box in order to clear the transmission shifter assembly.
7. Place motor in the engine bay and double check that the motor is sitting level, and that both axles will work properly.
8. Weld in both mounts.
9. The front cross member is next!! Place the cross member back on the car, you will have to trim the lip in order to clear the oil pan and transmission. The front mount is next. basically weld two plates to the front cross member and bolt on the mount.
10. Depending on what exhaust manifold you go with depends on what cross member modifications have to be done. I have cut the whole section out of the cross member and re-enforced it. another one had a stock exhaust manifold from a '96 civic (the ones with the cat built right at the top) we cut the cat off, and ran a custom 2 1/4 pipe right off the manifold and brought it out between the cross member and the front valance. On Peter's we built a custom cross member to run a 4-2-1 Mugen header.
11. The Oil pan if you go with a stock cross member you will either have to make some custom tie rod ends, or cut the corner off the oil pan. (I will post pictures of a modified oil pan)
14. All depending on skill, the stock radiator can be used, or a Volkswagen 2 core with external filler. You will have to build custom mounts for either set-up.
13. You will need to run a new fuel line/ change all the hoses at the tank to high pressure injection line/ add a fuel injected pump ( I found the '88 Ford F series inline pump works great : )
14. You will have to build a complete wiring harness for the EFI swap.
15. More to come...
You will retain your factory axles with the swap. You will need a portion of the shifter assembly (the stabilizer bar and rod) and then you will have to cut and shorten your stock assembly and weld it together.
Much More Information Here
The Accord was introduced in 1976 as a follow up to the Civic
- What is Honda Accord
HONDA will soon have delivered the millionth Civic to its customer somewhere in the World. Few cars have aroused as much interest and speculation as the next Honda which would be launched at the height of the Civics' almost mythical success. The new Accord, a thoroughly developed design with many praiseworthy features, fulfills the expectation and more. This is one Japanese car which is judged by its design and technical finesse, commendable road manners, rather than by generous equipment The Accord is a sound development of the Civic in its basic mechanical configuration and design. It is an evolutionary car.
Honda CVCC EF Inline four, transversely mounted and inclined 15 degrees forward, powered by a 1599cc capacity engine delivering a Bore and stroke of 74x93mm. That’s a 8:1 Compression ratio. Power is delivered by a water cooled cast iron block with a aluminum head. The head drives a single overhead camshaft, cogged belt driven and acting on three valves per cylinder through rocker arms. One intake valve in pre-chamber. One each intake and exhaust valve in main combustion chamber. (Remember this is the new emission friendly CVCC design used in the Civics’). It’s carbureted by a Honda-Kehin CVCC triple choke downdraft carburetor, fed from a 50 liter fuel tank by an electric pump. Japanese power rated at 80hp at 5300 rpm, equivalent to approximately 72 bhp. Torque rated at 12.3 kg-m JIS at 3000 rpm. Honda CVCC dual combustion chamber charge stratification, deceleration and ignition control, meeting the 1976 Japanese Emission Standards.
Wheels are driven by either 4-speed manual., 5-speed manual or Honda 2-speed semi-automatic. The manual transmission transfers it power through the use of a single dry plate clutch that is hydraulically operated. The weight of this new Honda is 855kg for the SL model to 890kg for the EX version.
The Honda Accord design can be compared to the Scirocco or the Toyota Sprinter LB (Corolla). There styling at a glance is very similar between the three models.
1981 Honda Accord Commercial Video
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Performance and more stylsh than the Accord. It was released with an 1751cc EK1 motor pumping out 72hp compared to the 68hp of the standard Accord model. Whellbase 91.3, 2.4 inches less than the Accord, Prelude could compete at the quarter-mile in 18.8 seconds at 70 mph, however backseat space was at a minimum. The one feature that was a mainstay in this car was the power sun roof. The Prelude's main power plant was a 1751cc version of the Accord's CVCC SOHC four producing 72 hp at 4,500 rpm and 94 pound-feet of torque at 3,000 rpm, backed by either the Hondamatic 2-speed automatic or a 5-speed manual transmission. Four wheel independent struts, brakes and floorpans were all borrowed from the second generation Civic design.
- What is Honda Prelude
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The N600 was produced in March 1967
- What is a Honda N600
It was a front-wheel drive two-door sedan with a 78.7-inch wheelbase and approximately 122inches long. It was technologically advanced for its time. It had a mere height of 52.2inches and a curb weight of 1213lbs powered by a type S2, SOHC, 599 cc (36.553 cu in) air cooled 2 cylinder engine able to reach a top speed of 81 mph. This little car was suspended on rear torsion bar and leaf springs.
It was the first front wheel drive 2 door sedan Honda imported into North America in March of 1970, It was first introduced in Hawaii in 1969. It was priced around $1,300.00us.
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The 1300 is the the international car for every country
- What is Honda 1300 Coupe
The 1300 Coupe was introduced in 1969 as one of Honda's' first full size car. Also considered as (Coupe 7 or Coupe 9) This unique car that has a top speed of 185 km/h (115 mph). This was achieved with a (SOHC) single overhead camshaft engine with 4 Keihin carburetors, it’s transverse four cylinder engine was air cooled and ran at 7200rpm to make 100hp from 1298cc’s of motor.
It has a 4-speed manual transmission with a silent chain driven all syncro gearbox. The front was held up by MacPherson struts, while the rear used a swing axle; a more modern style attached to leaf springs.
The 1300 was replaced by the 1973 Honda 143 Coupe powered by a 1433cc engine, now water cooled and quickly outdone by the introduction of the Civic a year earlier (1972)
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Here is a project or should I say a restoration that has been shared and gotten a lot of attention since January 2009. 559 replies. 70,296 Views, that is a lot of looking. I am sure Google has had a lot of look, but have you. If not; now the time to put your feet up and discover what it’s all about.
- Bob78CVCC Project
From the first post:Carlisle1aPic
This car looks deceptively good from the outside. It has nice paint on the outside. BUT as you peel back the layers there’s a lot of work to be done. It should be going to the body shop sometime this winter to take care of the rot and paint the whole interior. I plan to refinish the dash, install an AM/FM Stereo, deluxe gauge’s and repaint the seat brackets. I’d love to have the car finished in time for the Carlisle Import Show, May 15-17 2009.
I see now Bob has found an 8-track player, Whats an 8-track. Beatles, ELO, and The Supremes from the 60-80′s recorded music on this portable media.
Check out the whole topic here: Bob78CVCCProject
Well done Bob.
- Gallery Link