the starter does apply good enough power using a push button direct wired to the battary and does turn the motor over and turns it over just fine like it always did just doesn't start.
as far as the lights diming a little when I try to start the car from what I understand almost all cars do that.
also with internal lights on the car shutting off when I try to start it that is another thing I think it always did this way it can push more juice to the starter

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.190.188) on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 06:15 pm:

that click and all the lights dimming out is an internal resistance issue. if it's not the battery, it may be a bad ground wire from the frame to the battery.. that would also mess up the charging system and be a reason for other batteries not to work either. If the ignition system started smoking, it could be that the resistor has failed and full current is going through the coil, which may or may not have anything to do with your electrical connection to the starter. If you were to lose the power resistor, the coil will either melt down, or dead short to ground. it could very well be dead shorting through the points if they happen to be closed. if you hard wire it to the starter and the ground is still bad, the starter will spin, but when it engages the flywheel using the solenoid, it'll probably just click again because the battery cannot deliver a sufficient load to the starter.

-Richard

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.199.55.179) on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 02:09 pm:

I did file the points just a tad still guess I should check to see the resistance of the points. as far as the coil I have burned a few up already due to my stupidity of lazyness of fixing this issue. so far though everyone one I fried pukes oil this one didn't and I can mesure it at least with a ohm meter but what are the specs on them?

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:45 am:

Are you still running the points distributor? Leaving the key on all night with current flowing through the points may have damaged them too.

By Glenn Biscan (211.30.144.154) on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:03 am:

if you left the ignition on all night there is a possibility that you killed your coil. also you should be getting 12v @ the starter motor wire when it is switchd on

By Username (Username) (68.116.90.106) on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 10:58 pm:

I just picked up an accord, I won't need the ignition switch assy. I will look and see if it will fit your year, if so at least this problem will be over, still that carb adapter though...

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.197.48.240) on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 10:27 pm:

My ignition key is stuck in the on position so I have to disconnect the battery everytime I leave the car. I forgot to do it one night and when I came out the next day the batt was dead. tried to put a booster batt on there and it wouldn't turn over. at this point I had the car jumped and it started to turn over but no start and then soon after saw some smoke from the distributor.
after that the car wouldn't even turn over anymore just click when I turn the key and everything shuts off when I let go of the key everything turns back on. checked the batt voltage and it is at 12.4v or so I know the batt is good so far.
one thing I did notice though was the wire going to the selenoid on the starter was getting .5v with the key turned to on but when trying to start the car the voltage would drop down to around .3 volts shouldn't it go up to 12v or so? only way I can get it to turn over is hardwire a push button between the positive and the starter selenoid wire but even then it still doesn't turn over just spins and spins but no more