Hi everyone.
For a long time I have wanted to do the 4x100 swap but I can`t get the wagon knuckles here in Honduras, Central America, so I^m keeping my original knuckles but I want bigger disc.
78si can you post a picture or drawing of the brakets you made, so I can have them made at a shop.
Thanx everyone

By 78si (78si) (142.59.54.139) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 09:17 pm:

You dont have to redrill the rotors.

By Kdbaker (Kdbaker) (69.22.106.85) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 07:43 pm:

Would you or Justin be interested in doing the machine work, here in Florida I can't find anyone close who will redrill rotors.

By 78si (78si) (142.59.54.139) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 04:53 pm:

The info from that link covers a disc/drum set up. If you want a 4 wheel disc set up, this is the info you need. It was written by Justin......................

The only hub i use are 80'-83' civic, they have the same outer diameter as the 1200/cvcc, and it's easier to find(you also need the outer cv joint for the swap).i don't know if the later hubs will fit.. Vx's did not come out till 92' it was the hf from 88'-91' you can use the rotor and caliper from any civic (88'- and up)aslong as you have the wagon knuckles or caliper adapters

Blake, the wagon knuckle has the larger caliper spacing, so you can bolt on newer calipers the 1200 and the cvcc hatch both have the same size knuckle...

Here's the info on the brake swap:
Okay for the disc conversion for the front you'll need:

1: 80'-83' civic 1300 front hubs and outboard joints
2: inner bearing and seal for the matching hub from the above car(I've found they make two different bearing sizes for the 80'-83' civic(the outer size of the bearing is the same, it's just the inner size that's different)so just make sure you get the right one for your hub.
3:I would suggest to replace the outer bearing for the hub(it will be a replacement size for your factory knuckle)
4: you can use your original knuckle and go with a non-vented rotor from the same donor car(80'-83')but this limits you to using your original calipers(you can't change your calipers due to the spacing for the caliper mount)any newer Honda has a larger mounting area, so if you want to go with a larger set-up you'll need either a wagon front knuckle(they have the larger caliper spacing)and brake lines or get a set of brackets made to bolt to the original hub(I've made these up and they run $100.00 a pair)with this set-up you can easily run the vented/x-drilled rotors like I have, and not to mention the bigger calipers(I'm using the 92'-95' civic calipers and the pad surface is 4 times as much as the stock ones)

5: rear's are a simple as re-drilling the drums and putting them back on the car! I've now done a rear disc swap, I'm using factory parts from a 84'-87' prelude si(caliper and brackets). the hubs are from the 92'-95' civic dx and rotors from the 92'-95' civic si.

6: For the rear disc you will also need either a custom set of brake lines or a pre-made set(I found Nuspeed 92'-95' Civic Si Kit)works great..the custom set runs around $240.00...

More info on the rear disc parts..
I use the hub from a 88' or newer civic(can be from a rear drum, they have the same inner bearing diameter as the 1200)I basically machine the outer area so i can press in a 1200 outer bearing. The spacer is the same diameter as the factory one that is on the 1200 drum(It's used to space out the hub so the caliper lines up in the center of the disc. The disc is from a 92' or newer si, the caliper and bracket and mounting plate are from the 84'-87' prelude si, you can use newer calipers(they are all the same size, except for the mounting, so you must use the prelude caliper bracket)The E brake cables are also for the same year caliper, You can route the cables around the gas tank, under the exhaust heat shield and drill two holes for it to come thru the floor, when you get the donor brakes also grab the e brake handle and cable mounts, the handle will bolt up where your original handle went(rear bolt, you must drill a new hole for the front and nut and bolt it together)I relocated the seat bolt brackets back(I basically removed the 4 bolts, moved the assy. backwards so that the two front holes lined up where the original rears were and then drilled two new rear holes and nut and bolted it together) In doing this it gives you enough room to bring the new cables thru the floor and also somewhere to bolt down the cable stay bracket(the first one i did, i went thru the actual seat belt bracket and used it as the stay for the cables, but i found they binded)so i went with the new route mentioned above..

By Jonathan (66.252.173.251) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 12:25 pm:

http://www.civic1200.com/discus/messages/1/4306.html?

Go to that discussion, it gives you a list of parts for a starting point, as well as a link to here:
http://members.rogers.com/firstgencivic/4x100conversion.htm

There's some good pictures there too. Good luck with your conversion.

By Zippy (Zippy) (67.106.175.3) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 11:56 am:

This is exactly what the Knowledge Base Tree was designed to be for. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public and has never been used. Everything you need to know is on the site. Mabye, when you do the conversion you could document your work and do a write-up. Send it to Richard and have him post it. Then I could follow your lead when I get to the conversion. I would talk with Justin, he has it all in his head, no need to look anything up.

By Kdbaker (Kdbaker) (69.22.106.85) on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 09:48 am:

Could someone who has done this many times, Please create a step by step procedure sheet. Also to include parts needed and etc.I know this has been a discussion several times, I hoping someone will put this into a start to finish format. Maybe put it in the first gen knowledge base tree.