If that crank has been ground I'd chuck it in the bin. Ground cranks are known to fail quickly.
Honda cranks are extremely hard (nitrided). If you grind the hard surface off you have to get them re-hardened which is not cheap or easy and very few places can do it properly. You then have the problem of finding bearings that will fit.
Unless an engine has been completely starved of oil or been using really bad oil with very few changes for a very long time the crank essentially lasts forever. It's not too uncommon to crack open a high mileage engine and find the bearings barely worn and the crank perfect.
My advice would be to find yourself a decent crank (EN/EJ with matching rods would not be a bad idea) and as I said, chuck the ground one in the bin.

By david (209.152.48.185) on Wednesday, October 08, 2003 - 03:38 pm:

the box the crank was in said "010 010" on it. i'm assuming they gring down .01 of an inch. i may be wrong.

david

By civic1200freak (24.26.37.134) on Tuesday, October 07, 2003 - 06:15 pm:

I had posted on this subject about rockers several months ago, but nothing wrong with a reminder. If you went to the dealer to buy rockers (14621-PA1-600 for 1200)they are around $12 each. Whats cool about the new rockers is that they are not the same as the ones on your car. Originals rockers face that touches the camshaft was merely coated or plated with nickel. the new ones have an actual "puck" of nickel welded on. This setup on rockers is now found in all hondas. So, not just are you buying new rockers, but updated rockers as well......Hope this helps all....Rick

By H (24.70.95.205) on Tuesday, October 07, 2003 - 05:29 pm:

If you can get the crank and rods from an 80-83 EJ or EN.
I have seen many EB rods fail.(wrecking the block to boot!)

By david (198.245.131.62) on Tuesday, October 07, 2003 - 04:31 pm:

I think the eb2 piston thing was a lapse of memory. I'll find some eb3's. I will get the stronger rod bolts observing bryans problem.
Why should you never grind the crank? i just got a "grinded and polished" crank off ebay. Is it then worthless? It was in town and it was only $25, but still...
Anyway, who would be good for a mild cam. i've talked to a guy in B.C. that was recommended on here, and he had a couple in stock. The guy said that a honda dealer in the area made up a hot 1200 for promo purposes in the 70's, and they've had the template ever since. He was told that really didn't make a diff. untill you got to third gear then it just took off. I'm not really sure if this is exactly what i want, since off the line is very important to me.

david

By Zippy (Zippy) (67.106.175.3) on Tuesday, October 07, 2003 - 12:17 pm:

I've had the exact same problem.

By Bryan (66.245.105.192) on Tuesday, October 07, 2003 - 11:39 am:

I just machined an engine and used the ARP bolts. A word of caution though, the bolts are longer than stock and hit the main girdle. I personally would have shortened them if I would have payed attention, but I had to clearance the girdle instead. The engine had already been balanced.

By Adrian (Evocivic) (165.228.11.61) on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 07:22 pm:

Indeed. EB2 bottom end (slightly dished pistons) with EB3 head (big combustion chamber) equals stuff all compression, thus a huge drop in power.
The rods are quite strong and very very rarely break, though good rod bolts (ARP) are a good idea.
Standard rocker arms are fine (get them refaced or find some good ones if they are worn). Standard springs are ok for a slightly milder cam, aftermarket stiffer ones are not hard to get.
Use Honda bearings (aftermarket ones don't fit right) and whatever you do *NEVER* grind the crank.

By Kurt (142.179.39.216) on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 06:08 pm:

I could be wrong here but I think the EB2 pistons in the Eb3 head deiver less compression together as the Eb3 pistons are domed.

By david (209.152.48.184) on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 05:47 pm:

Any pointers on where to look for rocker arms/valve springs other than honda? I read something somewhere about getting stiffer springs from a different car. Is this only for racing applications?
A buddy and me are talking about building an engine. are preliminary idea is the eb2 block/eb2 piston/eb3 head setup, mild cam, dual sidedrafts, and a 4 to 1 header. We really want to do it up right and need to figure out what really needs the most attention as far as reenforcment goes. We want an engine that'll last a while. I've heard that 1200s biggest area of failure are the rods going and read on the dr.zoom page that they can be strengthened somehow. Is there any truth in this? Also on the main bearings, i've heard honda is this only way to go as the aftermarket ones don't always fit right. I'd really like to know when honda parts are completely nessesary and when after market ones will do the job as good, as well as the aftermarket brands to buy. I have been going through the archive, but it take time to sort the good stuff and the bull. Any suggestions would be great.
thank you for your time,
david