Help - Car won't rev

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Civic1200 Discussion Board: : Help - Car won't rev

Ya that does make sense Bryan. Funny you suggest using it as the return line to the tank beacause thats what I'm doing When I was having the problems I actually had the return line connected to the wrong brass tube.

Thx for the help,

Kurt

By Bryan (66.32.140.138) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 11:16 am:

sounds like the connection with the small hole is for the return line. The return always has a restriction so the fuel pressure to the carb is constant. If you have a return line to the gas tank I would suggest you connect it up to that fitting. It prevents vapor lock.

By Kurt (142.179.39.216) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 11:51 am:

Never sais I was speeding

By Kyle Thomson (24.69.255.203) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 10:41 pm:

LOL thats what I was thinking!!! you should write yourself a ticket =)

By Justin (24.69.255.203) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 08:37 pm:

Kurt...Isn't that Illegal I believe you were going above the posted speed limit

By Kurt Bosnell (207.6.47.175) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 06:53 pm:

Its Fixed

Todd's the winner (thank you!)

As nothing was working I figured maybe the float level was off. I ran the car down the road, let it sputter and die and then checked to see if there was any fuel in the bowl. I did this by leaving the car off, removing the filter and then seeing if any gas squirted out when opening the throttle. Not surprisingly there was just air and fuel reminents as opposed to getting 25 or so solid squirts when it was full.

I pulled the top off the carb to check the level of the floats and decided to try a top off a parts carb that I have lying around. To use the other one I had to pull the brass fuel inlet pipes out of the one I had on to put them on the other one. This is when I discovered the problem. For some reason my Weber has 2 brass inlets on the top of the carb. When I hooked up my fuel lines I plugged one up (they were not threaded so I couldn't cap it) and ran the fuel line to the other one. Well...for some reason one of them is open, like a regular brass tube, and the other one is solid on the inside end except for a tiny pin hole (like a carb jet). Once I moved the fuel line to the other inlet tube and blocked the one with the tiny hole every thing ran great

Long story short the car flies now. Who new you break the tires shifting into second gear

Thanx for you help everyone, I will post pics when the car is painted.

- Kurt

By Kurt (207.6.47.175) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 03:24 pm:

So I tried moving the distributor to 'play' with the timing - still nothing but I need to get a timing light for sure. The distributor was positioned to the maximum extreme and I tried centering it but still no difference. I pulled out all the plugs for a look and they are a light brown shade - look normal to me.

- Kurt

By Kurt (207.6.47.175) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 01:54 pm:

Update:

Ok I have finished flushing all the old fuel out, blew out the lines, REPLACED the fuel pump with another standard electric Carter pump (I dropped the other one and it kacked ). This time I relocated the pump right next to the tank with another new fuel filter. No other filters were present (that could be seen).

I tried it again and still the same thing - piss me off. I tried the carb adjustments as they are according to Carbs Unlimited at: http://www.carbs.net/Weber/adjust.htm I can't really say it made a difference as there was no consistency.

As for a tune up everything is new - plugs, cap, rotor, module, coil, etc.

But timing...hmmm, I'm afraid of timing motors but I guess I'll have to try. I have no timing light but I suppose if I mark the spot where it is now and advance/retard it a bit it can't hurt. The reason I never originally thought of timing was that I have not changed the timing since I received the motor and I just assumed it was on before. I guess it is likely that something got bumped during the install though. I also never thought of the thing flooding itself but thats entirely possible too. I like your idea Todd, I'm going to try that. Wnaything else I'm missing here.

Thanx and sorry for the long posts.

Kurt

By Todd (12.93.73.12) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 11:54 am:

Just because your pump is making noise and pumps fuel when the car is idling doesn't mean the pump is doing its job properly. A fuel pressure guage is a good idea, but must be done properly. Otherwise, drive the car up the road and let it die. Shut off power immediately and check to see if there's fuel in the carb. If not, you've got a flow problem, if so, the problems elsewhere.
Just a thought, is your cam timing correct?

By Zippy (Zippy) (67.106.175.3) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 10:16 am:

I think you're on the right track. Are there any fuel filters that you missed? I've seen carbs with a filter inside them. Check the plugs to see if they're rich or lean. Black - rich, white, red - lean. And, as always, when you're trying to beat a problem like this, mabye it's a whole bunch of little things adding up. Mabye there are symptoms from several small things looking like a big thing. Make sure everything else is OK. Try a thorough general tune up before you beat on this (apparent) fuel flow problem any more.

By Kurt (207.6.47.175) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 09:36 am:

I actually tried doing the adjustments to the mixture screw and I believe its running bang on. I checked for full movement in the throttle and I have that too. I should have mentioned the carb came with the motor (was Justins at one time) so the carb was run before on the motor so the jetting inside should be good as well. Maybe I will try the screw again today though.

I guess it could be as Kyle suggested, maybe its flooding and not starving itself like I thought? One difference though - its so bad accelerating I wouldn't make it into town nevermind Colorado!! So how do I know if its flooding and not starving for fuel?

Thx - Kurt

By bruce (66.20.225.138) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 04:48 am:

Kurt....webers pretty easy, sounds like your to rich, start it and get it to temp, back out your idle screw, adjust your mixture screw, screw it in until it wants to die, then screw it out until it wants to die, then slowly screw it in till it sounds nice, make sure your getting full throw on your carb too, so both barrels open when you stomp on it. hope this helps.

By Kyle Thomson (24.69.255.203) on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 01:02 am:

Hey Kurt, I had the same kind of problems after I did my swap as well, mine was actually running really rich though and as I tried to accelerate it would flood, now I don't remember exactly what I did, I will look at it tomorrow when its light out and I'm sure I will remember. I know it was the mixture screw that needed to be adjusted, I just don't remember what I did, Hopefully Dennis will see this as he was the one who showed me how to do it in the middle of the camground in colorado =)

By Kurt (207.6.47.175) on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 - 09:32 pm:

Ok here is my ltest, hopefully last dilemma:

I just got my car on the road after completing the EL swap. Car runs great - idles forever with no glitches. I took it out today and noticed that when I accelerate hard I can only go through about 2 gears before the car bogs and wants to die. About 50 % of the time I can save it by pulling over and pushing in the clutch. The car will stutter for a few moments and then run /idle smooth.

As I'm in a rural area I was able to drive around with no problem as long as I did not give it a fair bit of gas to pick up speed. I can even drive around in fourth as long as I'm very light on the throttle. I tried accelerating hard while the car sat in nuetral and after about 10 seconds it does the same thing - craps out.

I figure it must be a fuel related problem as its almost the like the car is starving itself for fuel but is able to catch up once I pull over ad let it idle for a bit (the float bowl becomes full again?).

Now the car sat for about 3-4 years and still had a mix of old fuel and new fuel in the tank. I figured it may be crud in the fuel filter so I changed that to no avail.

I messed with the few vaccuum lines that are on the Weber with no change as well.

I do use an generic electric pump (3-4 psi) and it was mounted in the engine bay even though it is meant to push the fuel not pull it. But I know some guys run them like this (ie. Puff's with the same swap) and have no problems. I am confident the pump is working fine as it sounds strong and is new. This is also the second pump I have used as the stock Accord one was clicking away so much it drove me nuts. The problem was also there with the old pump.

I did do my homework on this one and reviewed this old post regarding a clogged tank http://www.civic1200.com/discus/messages/1/1269.html?1031453160

As a result of the post I drained the old fuel (it almost looked pink) and removed the tank. The inside of the tank appeared really clean - no rust and I blew out the lines to make sure there were no blockages - there were not.

Does anyone have any suggestions, PLEASE. I just want to drive the thing! In the meantime the pump is back by the tank and I have new gas but havn't had a chance to wire it yet.

Thx,

Kurt