lol Andrew

And yes jms, they are powder coated.

I'm actually sleeping with my rear cross member/steering rack atm because i'm outta floor space! crazy stuff.. but it's freshly powder coated with a reconditioned rack and even stainless steel bolts... perhaps I'm going a bit overboard. :P

By jms (68.107.182.165) on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 10:54 am:

ya, are those powered coated?

By Andrew Fatseas (203.63.44.193) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 06:38 pm:

Lazy, I certainly don't have any car parts that are clean enough to put on the bed!

By Justin (199.60.112.10) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 03:36 pm:

There is no seal that will fit the hub, I ended up machining a washer the same diameter as the hub, and it worked great

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 07:01 am:

hey Justin.. are there any bearing seals used in the rear disc conversion?

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 06:46 am:

It's a bit belated, but thanks for your help Adrian. It turned out there are about a half a dozen CBC's up here in QLD. I'm posting under a different thread because the original one is funked due to the board crash of a while back.

I also took your advice and got some countersunk screws etc.. it's definitely the way to go.

For other peep's future reference, here's a pic of the the clearance between the studs on the EN hub and the EB outer seal:


I don't have a ruler on me, but I'd guess the gap would be approximately 3mm. If I remember to I'll take some clearer photos and measurements before I put the knuckles back on the car.

By Shea Laking (Sheaman71) (66.185.85.79) on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:51 pm:

Paul,

Thank you very much for your response-it is greatly appreciated.

By paul (216.113.209.172) on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 01:20 am:

Shea
When Justin did my 4 disc conversion we kept the OE master. The breaks are solid, she stops on a dime. BTW bleeding the brakes does take time to get them feeling that hard.
I dont think the 4th Gen drums would "just bolt up", the backing plate wolud be a pain to have refitted. That is why we used the caliper bracket from the prelude. Besides if you are gonna spend the time to upgrade the brakes you might as well just go disc.

By Shea Laking (Sheaman71) (66.185.85.79) on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 06:27 am:

There's one question that I haven't seen anyone pose about this swap yet...and I'm curious about it. The master cylinder, what do you do about that? Seems to me that you might run into fluid displacement issues if the new front and rear calipers/cylinders require a larger fluid displacement (volume) than stock? Also, if you're using the Gen IV Civic rear hubs, would you be able to just swap on Gen IV rear drum brakes? Any thoughts you may have would be appreciated

By 78si (78si) (142.59.54.139) on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 04:09 pm:

Use a second generation civic outer joint..

By Eric (68.53.228.188) on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 03:48 pm:

So do I have this right? I can use the original (78 Civic) axle but the outer CV joint has to come from the donor (88 or newer Civic)?

Eric

By jms (66.242.1.62) on Saturday, November 01, 2003 - 04:10 pm:

cool

By justin (207.102.0.6) on Thursday, October 30, 2003 - 06:32 pm:

I've just ordered the Russell kit for the '92-'95 civic si, it came to $115.00 cad! for all four lines!! I'll post up pics of it..

By Justin (207.102.0.6) on Thursday, October 30, 2003 - 01:36 pm:

The "kit" basically replaces hard line that is attached at the fenderwell, that runs to your caliper..

You get a new wagon outer seal, bearings(all the same)and a new 1300 rear seal.
I should have the russell performance catalog sometime today..

By jms (198.26.123.37) on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 11:29 am:

sweet, one more question on the lines, this kit goes all the way to the master cylinder, runs along the firewall?

On the bearings/seals issue
Front wagon knuckle gets new front seal, and a 1300 seal in the back of it
"The wagon/1200/1300 all use the same size bearing, you will need a new set for the front, a rear 1300 seal and a front wagon seal."

rear gets OEM seals for matching hub
or do I have it confused-it gets the 1300 seal? just one? Sorry I cant remember where I took out the seals and what they came off, I had wagon spindles 1300 spindles and other hubs I was pulling stuff from.

By Justin (207.102.0.6) on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 10:14 am:

If your purchasing a set of lines, the ones to buy are the '92-'95 civic/del sol SI it, it comes with front and rear stainless lines. It will bolt directly in place of your original lines, the only problem being the length. They are much longer than the original ones, you will have to tie the excess out of the way. using aftermarket lines you will not require the wagon ones. I've also custom built them using Russell Lines I'm having a catalog delivered this afternoon, I'll list the parts required.

By jms (132.38.190.10) on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 08:07 am:

when "making" the brake lines with the 92-95 set whats involved, lots of mods? Do I still need the front wagon lines?

By juan salguero (152.163.253.2) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 09:51 pm:

is there a way to just drill the 4*100 bolt patern on and attach the rims you want? i heard someone did that but i dont know if its true or if it even works

By Adrian (Evocivic) (165.228.11.61) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 02:24 pm:

Rather than mucking around grinding down bolt heads it's much easier just to get a rose and a drill and countersink the holes, then use countersunk bolts. Much neater.

By jms (132.38.190.10) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 01:04 pm:

cool, I will be going up to the junk yard again this Sat to get the remaining stuff, then I just have to go buy bearings and make the spacer, you had the machine shop make yours?

By farenheight101 (24.69.255.203) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 10:29 am:

nm...justin got the question just minutes before me!! hehe

By farenheight101 (24.69.255.203) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 10:28 am:

For the wagon front kuckle bearing seal bolts, I just grinded them down halfway. They still have meat to put a wrench on em and the hub studs just clear them.

By Justin (207.102.0.6) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 10:25 am:

Jms, you just machine the head basically in half, it offers enough head to bolt it on, but enough clearance so it clears the backside of the hub.

John, the last time I had them done, it cost me $20.00 ea.(cad) and that was with each spacer aswell. I had 10 done at one time to cut down the costs. I bought the hubs from the wreckers for $20.00 ea. I've now met a new machine shop, and I'm getting a set of integra hubs done for Shane's wagon(the integra hub has the same inner diameter as the wagon inner bearing, I just have to machine the outer portion to accept the wagon outer bearing)It should be cheaper thru this new shop..(I've traded stereo work for time )

By John S. (205.188.209.107) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 10:16 am:

Justin,
Just out of curiousity what is it costing you to get those hubs machined for the 1st Gen outer bearings?

By jms (132.38.190.10) on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 07:51 am:

how do you "machine" the bolts for the wagon spindle seal so they dont hit the new front hub? do they totally get taken off, if so what holds the seal on?

By Justin (24.69.255.237) on Sunday, October 26, 2003 - 09:47 am:

basically yes, you have to get new hubs, here in Canada they only sell the hub as a complete piece(the bearings are not removeable) I suppose you cound machine the hub so the inner 1200 bearing would also work, but I haven't tried it..

By jms (67.30.45.55) on Sunday, October 26, 2003 - 08:13 am:

Crud, back to the junkyard, so what if the bearings are ever bad-all new hubs?

So middle bearing stays, outer gets machined for outer 1200 bearing, inner stays if its good, if not gets replaced with stock inner 1200 bearing and/or the one it came with? Well at least one of the hubs is still good. Pressing out all the bearings is a pain.

By Justin (207.102.0.6) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 02:59 pm:

You Frucked up You leave the factory bearings and machine the outer portion of the hub so you can press in your 1200 bearing, the inner factory bearing stays in place and the rear factory bearing is the same diameter as you 1200 stub axle. So basically you have three bearings..

By jms (67.30.45.116) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 12:10 pm:

Cool.

Problem: I think I messed up the 94 civic rear hubs. I tried taking out the bearing in the middle but it doesnt look like its supposed to come out. Im this is the part you said is th outer bearing and gets machined, or will it remain giving it a total of 3 bearings and I messed it up?

By Justin (24.69.255.237) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 09:27 am:

#5/6 bolt to the 1200 spindle(same bolt holes as the factory backing plate), you bolt it up and bolt the caliper to it You can't use a factory console with the new e-brake, not enough clearance. You place the axle in a vise, and beat on the end(the back side)with a 10lb sledge hammer, it will release it from the c-clip that is holding it on

By jms (198.26.123.37) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 09:16 am:

figure 5/6 is the calpier bracket for the rear of the prelude right? I need that? I though the calipers bolt to the 1200?

By jms (198.26.123.37) on Saturday, October 25, 2003 - 09:13 am:

Im headed over to the shop to mess around some more, here a few quick Qs

did you have to cut your OEM console to fit the prelude ebrake handle?

how in the world do you take the axle apart to get the outboard joints/how to put it back together. I thought it would unbolt but it looks like it doesnt?

By Justin (24.69.255.237) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 10:57 pm:

It's not that bad I can do a full swap in a afternoon
PS: here's the rear disc parts you are missing (5/6) I don't have the dust shields on the front or rear either.

By Kurt Bosnell (142.179.39.216) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 10:49 pm:

Wow that sounds complicated...its no wonder I'm still running the stockers!

Kurt

By Justin (24.69.255.237) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 10:44 pm:

Oops here the pics..

By Justin (24.69.255.237) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 10:42 pm:

Okay..
The wagon/1200/1300 all use the same size bearing, you will need a new set for the front, a rear 1300 seal and a front wagon seal. You will have to machine the 10mm bolts that hold the front seal on, or use a set of philips bolts( ones used to hold on the discs)the reason being that the bolts are to tall and they will hit the hub once it is pressed in. You have to mount the 1300 outboard on your original axle(throw out all of the other junk )
The calipers must either be the DX or LX, the Si will not clear properly, all of the rotors are the same (SI/DX/LX etc etc)
You need the '84-'87 rear prelude calipers (brackets/mounting plates)and e-brake lines, the hub can come from any civic from '88 and newer(rear disc or drum it doesn't matter, the only difference is that the disc set-up has the mounting holes to bolt the disc to)You have to machine the outer portion of the hub so you can press a 1200 rear outer bearing into the hub(so it sits flush with the lip). You will have to machine up a spacer. It's identical to the one that is on the rear hub that spaces the drum out)you need to double the factory one so the hub/rotor sits evenly in the caliper. The prelude caliper bracket will bolt directly to the 1200 spindle.The rotor for the rear will work from any civic/crx/integra '88 and newer
The rear factory brake cable hole is a perfect spot for running and mounting the e-brake cable, just enlarge the hole and you can hook it up you will have to grind and smooth out a few spots on the caliper to get the e-brake to work smoothly. You run the cables up the rear trailing arms and around the gas tank drill two holes in the floor (I'll take pics)
You can use wagon front brake lines for the front and rear or get(or make)a set of stainless ones(I've used the '92-'95 Si kit from Nuespeed)

Things your missing..
1. front calipers
2. rear prelude brackets(the ones that bolt to the spindle)
3. brake lines(emergency line aswell)
4. rotors/pads
PS: I'm not sure about cutting down the knuckle it seems dangerous!

By jms (67.30.44.84) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 05:54 pm:

A few more Q?s, I just pressed out the bearings (junked them), so on the fronts what bearings and seals are used with the wagon knuckle/1300 hub. And on the rears what bearings and seals are used with the 94 civic hubs?

And the brake backing plates, Front=wagon, Rear= 1200 right?

Lastly I didnt get the brake lines when I grabbed the wagon knuckles, so what do I need? I remember you said something about some SS lines? Im putting in the D16 too.

By jms (67.30.45.46) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 01:43 pm:

did you have to cut your OEM console to fit the prelude ebrake handle?

will these calipers work on the front?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33563&item=2438806589

will these rotors fit the rears?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=42605&item=2439130945

will these rotors fit the fronts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2438049869

By jms (67.30.45.46) on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 01:32 pm:

So far I think all I am missing are the front calipers from a 92-95 Civic, other than that does it look like I have everything? Can you give me the specs on the machine work, and tell me what discs to use? Below are some links to some on ebay, will they work? Many are listed as fitting all Civcs from 89-2000 even SI models, so those should work right? I know you said some items had to be from an SI though?? The rear hubs I got off a 94 Civic 2dr coupe, the rear calipers and brackets came from an 85 prelude (I couldnt tell if it was SI but it had 5spd, sunroof etc etc), wagon knuckels, machined down a 1/4 inch for a slight increase in drop (and gain full susp travel-BUT will it weaken it too much???), 1980 civic 1300 front hubs and outboard joints (the spindles, calipers, disc and inboards I guess I wont be using? Any pics would help especially the ebrake set up Im a little confused on how you moved the seat brackets?