Sweet then. Im sure it'll be fine...

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Saturday, April 24, 2004 - 06:03 am:

it's only about 44,991 and a bit volts off the mark.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.31.205) on Saturday, April 24, 2004 - 01:29 am:

OK, good start: it doesnt all start burning now! But i only have 8-and a bit volts between the centre coil terminal and ground. Does this mean my coil is buggered?

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Saturday, April 24, 2004 - 01:06 am:

i.e.

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Saturday, April 24, 2004 - 01:01 am:

Remove the condenser completely. Now nothing from the coil or ballast resistor should lead to ground.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.242) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 10:52 pm:

Yeah, i had a feeling that was gonna be the case. WHY MUST THIS BE SO CHALLENGING!!! Damnit!

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (64.180.112.150) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 10:43 pm:

Just from electrical experience, I'd say no... sounds like the resistor is accidentally connected from V+ to ground and is just dropping a constant load. The resistor is just there to protect the coil and prevent electrical noise, not to take the full 12V over it.

-Richard

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.242) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 10:31 pm:

Ummm, should my ballast resistor be glowing red-hot from the moment i turn the screw driver to on? (keys? who needs keys :-P)

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 10:24 pm:

well.. good luck tell us what transpires.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.242) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 09:59 pm:

I thought about that, but the Bl/w that is connected to positive coil is the only one that will reach. And the only one that looks Bl/w all the others are definately Bl/y. I havent really had a chance to have a decent mess around yet, so im gonna see what happens if I play around with it for an hour or so....

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 09:16 pm:

My understanding is that it just helps reduce radio noise caused by the car's electrical system.

Are u sure that the Bl/W wire u have plugged in are actually Bl/W? Some faded Bl/Y wires can look more like greasy Bl/W. Either way I'd start by checking which ones lead back to the starter.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.31.151) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 03:03 pm:

The engine as it sits was running in the previous car, same coil, same dizzy etc. Done a bit of poking with the multimeter and the 3 extra wires are 12v X2 and the black one is earthed (surprise surprise). The coil is currently recieving about 4-5v which is a bit pitiful. Can you tell me the value of the little capacitor that grounds next to the coil? (blue wire off +ve coil). Thing disintegrated when i tried to undo its bolt! Apart from that i think i just need to get ff my ass and do some serious wiring-diagram reading...

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 04:57 am:

are you getting power on the +ve side of the coil? Have you checked the HT leads? what are the points like?

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.29.247) on Thursday, April 22, 2004 - 07:38 pm:

Redone all grounds, but still no spark. What voltages should i be getting accross the coil? Any ideas on what i do with those last few wires?

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 04:56 am:

From the factory the neg. battery terminal earths to the top of the transmission. The engine is then grounded to the chassis from a couple of points - one being from the rocker cover.

I'd recommend two good ground leads from the engine to the chassis of 8awg, and an earth from the negative side of the battery to wherever is convenient. The neg. battery lead should be of a gauge AT LEAST equal to that of the lead running from the positive battery post to the starter motor, but I recommend going a gauge bigger. Make sure your earth points are nice an clean too.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.32.177) on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 04:34 am:

Thats a good thought, ill see what i can organise. How many places should the engine be grounded in? Maybe Im missing a major earth somwehere...

Where does the neg. battery terminal earth to the chassis? There is a big ring thing on it, but i cant find any nearby bolting places.

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 03:46 am:

Have you checked your fuses?

Check for continuity from the fuse box using a multimeter to see if you have a short somewhere.

If you could get a digi photo of your coil it may help.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.32.177) on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 03:38 am:

Really starting to piss me off now All wires in the correct places now apart from 3. I remember when the original engine was in that there was at least one unconnected wire at the back, but the engine wasnt going so i dont know if that was right or not. I have gone over the wiring diagram thoroughly and I have a horrible feeling that these wires are linked to the ignition, but i have no idea where they go! They run back through the 2 big plugs and through the firewall and apart from splitting the entire loom and tracing it back to the beginning i have no-idea how to track these down. Any ideas?

Still no spark by the way.

Wires are:
Black -> male bullet
2x Black-whiteish yellow stripe -> female bullet

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.158) on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 - 12:02 am:

Thankyou very much, I will see how that goes. Bias/Ballast, you know what i meant :p

By lazy (165.228.57.19) on Monday, April 19, 2004 - 11:57 pm:

Link to wiring diagrams from previous post

In my manual one of the Bl/Y wires is supposed to go to the fuel cut-off solenoid on the carb, but on every civic I've seen it has been connected to the 'solenoid' mounted on the intake manifold.

Black wires are always ground. If you haven't hooked up the carb and intake manifold solenoids and there are no other wires I'd be connecting a Bl/Y to each and the Bl wire to the manifold solenoid.

The Y/R wire should be for your oil pressure switch. From memory it's located in the middle of the firewall side face of the block. It should be a spade connector.

I think you're right having one wire off the -ve side of the coil.. it should be going to the distributor.

The Bl/W wire connected to the bias (ballast?) resistor with the 'broken connector' sounds like it should hook up to the +ve side of the coil.

Just make sure the wires are hooked up like this:

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.29.15) on Monday, April 19, 2004 - 10:52 pm:

Ok, i no longer have a properly wired car to have a look at so im gonna need a bit more help. The currently non-connected wires are...

Engine side:

Black-Yellow stripe with female bullet -> goes towards the big plugs
Black-Yellow/Lime stripe with female bullet -> goes towards big plugs
Black with male bullet -> splits to alternator and big plugs
Yellow-Red stripe broken connector (spade?) -> goes to big plugs

Coil side:

Black-White stripe broken connector (ring?) -> bias resistor
Black-White stripe several connectors -> positive coil

Also only have 1 wire coming off the negative side of the coil, is this right?

I know it is a bit of a hassle, but if anyone could go and have a look and see which these should be connected to i would be eternally greatful!

The original engine had the single-wire Fuel Cut-Off solenoid so i think that would make it a '78 chassis. The '79 engine that is now in there has the single-wire solenoid on it now.

By Colza (Colza) (210.54.66.1) on Sunday, April 18, 2004 - 08:27 pm:

Cheers guys, that is a start. I will have a play around this arvo. I think it has gas, it is the lack of spark which is concerning me...

By Neil - Colorado (198.81.26.75) on Sunday, April 18, 2004 - 11:06 am:

Colza:

You're looking at the Fuel Cut-Off solenoid. Some cars (like my Z-600 & '79 1200) had two wires, one being ground. My 82 has a single wire and grounds through the body of the solenoid & carb. So hook-up one, ground the other to the chassis and check for function when powered-up. This solenoid is normally closed, so it needs to be energized for the carb to get gas.

Not sure about the other stray wires. Hope this helps a little.

By Don (199.2.139.221) on Sunday, April 18, 2004 - 08:05 am:

Since all Eb3's are the same externally....ever thought of using the carby off the old engine? The factory service manuals have wiring diagrams.

By Colza (Colza) (210.54.66.58) on Saturday, April 17, 2004 - 10:16 pm:

Ok. Just swapped my EB3 from a '79 hatch into an unknown year 4-door hatch (also with an EB3). Thought it was gonna be really easy, but there are 5-6 wires round the back of the engine that are different on the 2 engines. The little black (solenoid?) thing on the back of the carby has 2 wires rather than one (what does it do?) and there are a few other misc. wires hangin around. Which wires are essential to the running of the engine? Currently has no spark (coil was working when in the 2-door). The engine is just so i can move the body to workshops, pannelbeaters etc. doesnt need to go beautifully, just needs to GO!!!