well then, if you have the tool, then use it first!

After that go through all the adjustments.

Let me know

By Kurt (207.6.33.129) on Monday, June 14, 2004 - 08:58 pm:

Thanks Bryan. I have one of those carb sync tools whereby you place it on the end of the carb and adjust the tool until the floater moves up in the pastic tube about half way. You leave the tool at the same setting and then place it on the other carb and adjust the linkage until the floater rises about half way again.

It really just measures air flow, it seems kinda mickey mouse but I guess it makes sense.

- Kurt

By Bryan (66.245.16.121) on Monday, June 14, 2004 - 06:57 am:

Kurt,

You also need to get a balance guage to be able to tell if the carbs are pulling the same air at idle. They are reletively cheap.

1.5 turns is about right for the mixture screws. You need to balance the carbs first. Then you start at the 1.5 turns and go from there. You will want to turn them all in 1/4 turn at a time until the idle speed drops and the car will run slightly rough. Then, back them all out 1/4 and there you go. If they are not close to the 1.5 turns, your are either rich (less than a turn), or lean (more than 2 turns)

By Kurt (66.183.150.217) on Sunday, June 13, 2004 - 02:31 pm:

I believe the manifolds you are thinking of are for a 1200 motor, not the EL.

You can still get the dual carb mani's for the 1200 (eb motors) from euro carb while the matching Dellorto carbs can be had for dirt cheap at a place in the US (the name slips my mind at the moment). I spoke with the guy personally and he had been told a number of us first gen enthusiasts would be swarming to get them but no one wanted to shell out the $$ It was and still is a good deal in the end as everything is new off the shelf. I would of went that route myself if I wasn't running the EL.

The stock Civic you have in mind is the RS with dual Keihins (sp).

Back to my dilema...I beleive I figured it out, I disassembled it all and soaked it in carb cleaner then blew it out with compressed air and threw in a couple of rebuild kits. Worked better but did not fix it completely. I messed around with the linkage and I believe it was my problem the entire time. It appeared one of the carbs was getting 'throttle' at idle while the other was running at normal idle. I backed off the adjuster at the linkage and they almost instantly balancd out.

One more Q though, what is the mixture screws supposed to be set at, I am running them at about 1.5 turns out? I really need a Dellorto tuning book

- Kurt

By farenheight101 (24.69.255.203) on Saturday, June 12, 2004 - 08:26 am:

You can still get the manifolds from Australia or new zealand someplaces. Dellorto DHLB 32mm's came stock on a Civic (RT?) I think it was called. Anywasy I ended up paying $400 CDN for mine in the end.

By Kurt (66.183.150.217) on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 01:40 pm:

I am runninh a Canadian 81 EL motor (non CVCC).

It took me over a year to track one down and ended up buying one from Quickrick on the board here. There are no new ones available (I sent emails everywhere!) despite some outdated references to them on some sites. I do know of a place that said they had some for a single draft carb but no dual manis.

By Civic_Rocket (Civic_Rocket) (203.222.88.23) on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 05:06 am:

A quick question Kurt!
Where did you get an inlet manifold for the Dellorto's? About how much???
What motor do you have??
Thanks!!!

By Kurt (66.183.150.217) on Tuesday, June 08, 2004 - 12:57 am:

Well, I finally had a chance to tinker some more...

I removed the booster hose and blocked it - no change.

Checked the float height - perfect.

Vaccuum advance - no change.

Swapped jets from one to another - the same carb ran lean.

Changed the fuel input from the one carb to the other - still no fix.

Next thing to try is to remove the carb, disassemble it,let it soak in carb claaner and then blow it out with compressed air. The mechanic mentioned something about a clogged idle circuit as the carb seems to drive okay once the revs climb up but a bag of Sh*t at idle and at low rpms.

Adrian, I should have read your post, a little more carefully, it seems your onto something I'll let you know how it goes.

- Kurt

By Adrian (Evocivic) (165.228.11.61) on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 11:23 pm:

Sounds to me like blocked jets, emulsion tubes or similar.
I had a similar thing happen to my RS twins the other week. A tank of crap fuel blocked up the idle jets, particularly in one of the carbs. I pulled them apart and they looked quite clean in the float bowls, put them back together and it was about the same. Pulled them completely to bits and cleaned every jet and airway and it now runs perfectly.

If you reckon the carbs are ok and want to eliminate the brake booster as a cause (could be leaking internally), just pull its hose off and block it up. You should know instantly if it's the problem.

By Kurt (207.6.43.211) on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 11:03 pm:

I finally got a chance to put my side draft carbs on. Like I mentioned in another post the carbs give me incredible power difference over the Weber down draft but the car spits and pops and just doesn't run as smooth.

I took the car in for an alignment today and mentioned the carbs to the mechaninc. He had a chance to play with them and discovered that only ONE of the carbs is running too lean. This was the carb running the third and forth cylinder and/or the one farthest from the fuel pump.

He showed me what he meant. By slightly applying the choke to the lean carb the idle would smooth right out and the car would run great. He could also move the air/fuel adjustment screws right in and out with no changes in the way the car ran. Yet when the choke was applied to the 'good' carb the car would immediately die and slight changes to the air fuel screws really increased the way the car was running.

He did a test for any leaks to the intake gasket with acetyline and found everything to be sealed up properly. He mentioned that he figures the carbs are jetted properly and I know each carb has the same jetting.

He suggested three things may be wrong. The float level may be off, one of the jets is clogged or the Carter fuel pump I am running is not delivering enough fuel to the carb. Given more time he would of played with them some more.

Now, the carbs are very clean. I also let the car idle normally, killed the motor, took the tops off the carbs and noted that both carbs had the same amount of fuel and both floats were set the same. I even tried swapping tops in case the floats were just slightly off but tit still ran the same and the motor still smoothed out when I slightly applied the choke to the one carb. I have not yet swapped the carbs around completely.

The only other thing I can think of is the carb itself is hooped, or the line for the brake booster thats connected to the #4 runnner on the intake is effecting the one carb?

I was going to drive the car to Kelowna like this (3 hours each way) but he mentioned not too as its too hard on the motor. In the meantime I'm trying to get some specs for the mechanic to play with them next week.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

- Kurt