Jeff,

The red fluid would be automatic transmission fluid for your Hondamatic transmission... That's actually the transmission fluid cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator. Don't forget to hook those lines back up!!

Regards,
Shea

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.171.165) on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 10:00 pm:

if it worked when you reversed the wires, take a close look at the connectors on the wires and make sure that they aren't covered in petina you want that connection to be solid so that you can count on it working right.

-Richard

By Jeff Cannon (Cannon) (4.16.4.217) on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 09:21 pm:

OK guys. Thanks for the help. I took out the radiator today and changed the thermosensor. Has a scare because it still did not come on and the I reversed the wires and it worked fine. One other questions, the two small hoses that feed into the bottom of the radiator where red fluid comes out (when disconnected), what do those go to?

Thanks.

By Keil Shepherd (Medicineman) (81.131.18.173) on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 10:47 am:

Yeah, definitely watch that thermoswitch when you're trying to get it out. Mine was gummed well into the rad with loctite (or something). When I tried to remove it the bottom tank cracked. Fortunately the radiator was out of the car at the time and the guy who recored it just soldered up the cracks. Worked fine since.

By Jonathan (68.193.10.141) on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 08:55 pm:

When you remove the one that's on there, yes, all the coolant is going to come out. Best way I've found to do it is to remove the wires from the back, take off the cooling fan for access, and use a box wrench on the sensor. Use both hands, one to turn the wrench, one pushing the other way on the sensor to keep the bung it's screwed into from bending in the radiator. Now's a good time to replace some of the coolant if you haven't already. To keep things neat, leave the radiator cap on, it'll keep the coolant from gushing out. If you're in a hurry, take the cap off, and the old coolant will be out in a few seconds, but will go everywhere. When you refill the system, be sure to have the heater on hot, and then burp the air out using the fitting near the thermostat. Not hard to do, should only need a 10mm socket for the cooling fan, and a 27mm wrench for the thermoswitch. Oh yeah, and a pan to catch the old coolant.

By Jeff Cannon (Cannon) (4.16.4.217) on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 08:44 pm:

OK, so I checked the radiator the way you guys suggested and it came right on! Yeah! Called the local Autozone and they had a replacement thermosensor in stock. Yeah!

Now, before I install the new one, is there anything I should know? When I remove this, is fluid going to come out? Do I need a special tool? Is there an "easist" way to get to it?

Thanks again guys.

By Jeff Cannon (Cannon) (67.17.191.194) on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 04:32 pm:

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the input. I will work on it tomorrow and this weekend and share my results and findings.

- Jeff

By Keil Shepherd (Medicineman) (81.131.113.135) on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 02:11 pm:

Just disconnect the wires from the thermoswitch and connect them up with a bit of wire and turn on the car's electrics. Saves connecting it to the battery. If it works then replace the thermoswitch. It's a weak spot on the Mk1 Civics. I'm on my third!

Also, check the dipstick, is there any mayo (due to coolant encroachment via blown head gasket) in the sump? Don't confuse this with mayo in the top of the rocker cover due to the dodgy breather setup.

Only if these simple tests fail would I consider delving any further.

By Jonathan (66.252.173.251) on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 02:03 pm:

Jeff, the thermosensors in the bottom of the radiator are known for going bad. If you have the key on, and connect the two wires going into the thermosensor together, the fan should spin. Some people leave it on all the time, some people have it connected to a switch on the dash, but I just replace the thermosensor when I need to (haven't needed to yet!). There were a few on e-bay last week if you need one.

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.171.165) on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 02:01 pm:

Yeah, you should probably do a cooling system rebuild. check the pump, replace the gaskets, change the coolant and make sure to bleed it properly. The fan should come on and it's controlled by a thermal switch at the bottom of the rad. if the fan doesn't come on when the car reaches just slightly past operating temp (about half way up the dial), try hooking the fan to the battery and see if the fan is defective. if the fan if okay , replace the thermo switch (these may bea tad hard to find locally). while you're doing your cooling system, replace the thermostat and figure out the condition of your heater's grid. you might want to take the rad to a shop and have them do a pressure test on it. look for holes and damage to the matrix and tanks. replace the filler cap and rad hoses. it's not a really expensive fix unless your rad is shot.

-Richard

By Jeff Cannon (Cannon) (67.17.191.194) on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 01:23 pm:

Hey guys. Sorry if this sounds lame, but I need to ask anyhow.

How does the radiator work and how do I know if mine is working? My 1977 CVCC overheats pretty easily when it is not moving. It also has trouble starting when it overheats or is 'hot'. On all my other Hondas, I know that the radiator fan comes on when the engine is hot (I assume to help cool the engine) - I especially notice this on old Hondas. My CVCC's radiator fan never turns. Is it suppose to?

Any input and suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

www.jeffcannon.net