I will have to look through my books, but I think it cuts the 12v down to 9v just like the points required.

An MSD will not trigger the ignition, You have to trigger the ignition then run that through the msd. I run a Pertonix in the dist to trigger the Msd6al

By Kurt (205.250.75.226) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 07:43 pm:

Ya tell me about it. Before I bought it there was a discussion on here about them and you guys warned me about them then. I should have listened and instead I went with the sale price I'm keeping my eyes out for an MSD 6 to replace this thing so the Mallory wil have to do for now. Where does the resisitor go? I was thinking of placing a fuse between the ignition source and the module just to be safe.

By Don (199.2.139.198) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 07:23 pm:

I dont remember you saying "Mallory" those modules are crud. One guy with a Chevy race car use to carry two spares every were he raced. I would have a spare in the car if your going to keep it. Also I seem to remember someone stating that a resitor is a must with those modules.

Pertonix if your looking for a replacement setup.

By Kurt (205.250.75.226) on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 11:53 pm:

Fixed it today. I had it booked in for Tuesday but figured I should try one more attempt. I found a way to test the Mallory ignition instead of relying on the diagnostic light thats built into the unit. Despite the stupid light 'telling me' everything is OK it was the Mallory ignition after all. I guess the short must have fried it somehow.

Luckily the local Lordco leant me one to try and it fired right up. Funny how the stock units can survive just about anything and this thing kacks from a faulty choke wire. Not impressed

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

- Kurt

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 02:51 pm:

Thanks, Don. It did what I could to check the ignition switch and everything appears to getting/receiving power when it should be. Using what knowledge I have (limited as it may be) I tried sourcing it back to the sources but everything seems to be operating as it should. That switch is suspect though. Perhaps it telling everything to turn over but is failing to send a message to deliver spark !

I removed the choke switch today completely as the short no doubt originated from there. The blue/white wire was even melted to the ground wire.

One would think elliminating the switch entirely would solve the problem but I guess it screwed up something else in the process.

Basically, I've given up. Its time to have it towed in somewhere and have a mechanic look at it.

By Don (199.2.139.226) on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:33 am:

Check your ignition switch, people bring me things like this all the time. Dont jump in the middle. Start at battery then fuses then ignition switch then the 12v source to power up the ignition. Trying to find smoke will just frustrate you. After its running if you want to inspect further then do so the same way on all circuits.

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 11:56 pm:

Jonathan, thanks for the wiring diagrams.

Okay, I believe I found the short. Not where I thought it would be though. It appears to be a wire thats connected to my choke up under the dash? Its a blue wire with a white line and it as well as the black wire from the choke (assuming its ground) are both burned pretty good.

"...I popped the hood and noted that the wires coming out of the fire wall were hot. I removed the tape and the short appeared to be the thicker black wire with the white stripe that connects to the small green wire...."

....My mistake here (green paint on wire) - the black and white wire actually connects to this same blue and white wire. I have disconnected it completely and the car still turns over but still no spark. I pulled that choke switch out from under the dash as I don't use a choke but I can't seem to see what this blue wire has to do with not getting spark??????? What does a choke switch have to do with it??


Am I making any sense?

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Thursday, August 05, 2004 - 11:15 am:

Kurt, I sent off the wiring diagrams, hopefully they'll help. Voltage at the ignition switch when the car is off is normal. The ignition switch connects the wires with voltage to other wires when the key is turned, and that starts the car. The only way I know of to test a coil is to measure the resistance across it, usually in the 1 ohm area. Not sure what the spec would be for your coil though. It might say in some of the literature that came with it. As long as it isn't above 3-4 ohms, I'd say you SHOULD be okay.

Another thing you can try is see how much resistance to ground each wire shows from the ignition switch. If you find a wire that has a dead short (0 Ohms), that's what's causing your smoke.

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 09:18 pm:

I should also mention the smoke from the short only occurred while I was cranking the engine. Course now its stopped smoking...perhaps I should check the wires running to my starter...

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 09:08 pm:

The car is a 78 with the EL motor. Same wiring harness as the 1200. Any help would be great.

Jonathan...thanks for the offer, I will let you know after I try a few things. The odd thing is all of the wiring looks intact???

I tried a few more things tonight...

Checked the wiring off the ignition switch. Some wires are constant power even if the ignition is off? I guess thats how you hot wire a car...anyway the black wires with the white line only have power when the ignition is cranked while the black wire with the yellow line only has power when the ignition is on. These same two wires exit the fire wall into the engine bay and have the same readings with the test light as they did under the dash. Good news there.

I checked for spark from the coil and its not sending anything to the distributor. Anyone know how to test the coil? Its an MSD Blaster SS coil.

I know nothing about automotive wiring but everything going to the module is delivering power and the ignition module test light tells me its working so what can I possibly be missing? I'm just not sure what I am missing under the dash that can stop producing 'spark' while the engine is cranking over? Is there some hidden fuse I have missed? Help

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 03:39 pm:

Kurt, I just remembered I have a dash wiring harness from a '78 1200 in a spare dash. I took the A/C out of the car, and the dash came along with it. There's a few places that have been cut, buy it'll be an easy repair. If you want, I'll do the repairs and send it off to you for $5 and the cost of shipping.

By Bill Dennis (Wilbur1977) (207.69.137.140) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 02:40 pm:

Kurt
I have a Honda factory manuel with wiring diagrams. Let me know what yr. model and I will scan and e-mail. Bill

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 08:18 am:

Kurt, don't know if mine'll be better than yours, they're from a Haynes manual. Which year would you want? 1200/CVCC? You went with a 1200 body and a EL motor, right?

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 08:07 am:

That would be great. I have some from an old Chilton's manual but they are not the best. Thanks.

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Tuesday, August 03, 2004 - 10:11 pm:

Kurt, if it'll help, I can try to dig up the wiring diagrams I have scanned in and e-mail them to you tomorrow.

By Kurt (207.6.118.157) on Tuesday, August 03, 2004 - 09:37 pm:

I went to start my car this morning and after about 5 seconds of cranking smoke started eminating from the top of my dash. Yikes Turned it off and left it.

Tonight I went out and removed the plastic around the column and below the dash to get a look at the wires. I moved somethings around and attempted cranking it over. More smoke but no sign of the short.

I popped the hood and noted that the wires coming out of the fire wall were hot. I removed the tape and the short appeared to be the thicker black wire with the white stripe that connects to the small green wire. That connection was super hot. I never did find out where it was shorting though. After some attempts at checking connections and re arranging some wires I tried the car again and voila no more smoke or hot wires.

Problem though - the car would not start. Checked the fuses and all were fine including the fuse going to my ignition module. I checked the ignition module via its diagnostic light and its getting power and flashing while the engine is cranking - indicating that its working.

I then pulled a plug and had my wife crank it over. Now its getting no spark. It may be vague but what am I missing? I see no indication where the plastic over the wires is melted either. Everything looks fine. Also, the car ran fine the last time it was driven and no changes have been made since.

- Kurt