i have never had any problem with front engine seals or even oil leaks at that. the pistons are arias and the rods look like tha stock cast ones. it always ran well and never had any problems untill this happened. which has nothing to do with the stroker kit

By kabuto (68.116.81.76) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 02:40 pm:

The pistons just looked a lot like the Venolias that we had made for us when we were in Santa Clara, thought that the work might have been done there. The Crank appears not to have been turned, the same way we did. The clearance work looks a little rough though. You might have a little trouble finding a front crank seal to fit, I seem to remember that being a bit of a challenge. We only put about a half dozen of these on the road, but they ran well and never came back, they sure had the potential to, but they seemed pretty sturdy. Looks like whoever did it took the time do do a good job if it lasted this long, good luck in reassembly!

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (4.3.41.213) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 10:26 am:

i bought the car from a neighbor in 2000. it had been sitting in his back yard for about 10 years. he said that he had bought if from the original owner (who had did all the work to the car). he said that the car used to be a national champ in solo 1. but he said that he had lost all the documentation for the car. when i bought it he gave me a slip of paper that he got from the original owner that had all the mods on it and it said: 1974 honda civic 1200
custom turbo
arias 8:1 pistons
5-speed tranny
mugen LSD
i thought that those were the only mods done to the car besides seats, fuel pump, minor suspension work, and brakes and all the obvious stuff. so pulling the engine apart and a bottom end out of a 1488 cvcc was really a suprise.

By kabuto (68.116.81.76) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 12:13 am:

PA5 was the designation that replaced the the 657 in the parts number for the 1980 model year, the rods would have superseded to that number along with a lot of other parts. Honda was still figuring out how to handle such huge growth at that time, and was doing some strange things in parts operations.

By kabuto (68.116.81.76) on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 12:09 am:

I have a set of pistons for a 1500 crank in the EB block that we had made by Venolia back in 1981 that sure look like what you have there.
That car didn't by chance come from the San Jose area did it? I might have some information for you.
-Bill

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (4.3.41.213) on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 09:56 am:

i think the rods are stock, but i dont know what they are from. they say "74" on them and they are cast. so i would asume that they are stock. yeah i think it would be hard to turn a N/A EB motor to 8500rpm.

By Bryan (66.245.68.239) on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 09:02 am:

Ahhh.......I did not know it was a turbo engine. You may have stated that earlier, but I am kind of out of it at the moment. Turbos tend to raise the RPM range of an engine. Do you know what the rods are?

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (4.3.41.213) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 07:19 pm:

the turbo would kick in at 3000rpm and would really start to pull at 6000rpm to 8500rpm. it always had fine oil pressure but i think the problem was oil temp (noot enough). i just sent out the engine block to get it resleved and i need to take the girdle and the crank before the can start. i would also think that the bearing clearances were wrong but i am going to fix that ahen i get everything done. and yes the pistons are Aries.

By Bryan (209.186.188.219) on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 12:45 pm:

sorry guys.....been out of the loop for a couple of days....been really sick.

I'm at the home comp which I don't have an email addy for.

I'm not sure what a pa5 rod is, but it sounds late model. Roger gives good advice using the 1200 rod on the 1300 crank. If you use an 86mm crank with a 74mm (max) overbore, it is a very oversquare combo. I am not a fan of using a larger stroke than bore, but obviously you have to with the EB engines. I actually had a longer than stock rod made for my combo to correct rod ratio.

Cody, if you were turning that engine that high, it would be hard for me to believe it was making power up that high. The piston looks like an Arias to me. Also, note how much material had to be ground off the girdle to clear the rods. It weakens that area to grind that much material off of it. That girdle makes up part of the structural integrity of that block. To remove too much of it, combined with the added stresses from the longer stroke crank, would probably make the bottem end start moving around. There sure is a lot of scuffing on the bearings and crank. There was either some debris or foriegn matter running through the bearings, or the clearances were not correct....................or the stuff was moving around and causing the crank to touch the bearings. That is assuming the engine did not starve for oil.

By Zippy (Zippy) (12.106.14.107) on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 09:25 am:

Frito,
I'd recommend using the 1200 rods on the 1300 crank so you get the longer rod and then use custom made pistons. The price for the custom pistons is about the same as off-the-shelf pistons. With the custom pistons you get better quality, lighter weight, and custom compression ratio. Somebody here should be able to tell you the optimum compression ratio for your cam. I'd guess vaguely 10/1. Also, before you have the pistons made you'll need to measure the volume of the combustion chamber in the head. Before you do that, I'd grind on your head to remove valve shrouding (restricted flow) and sharp edges in the combustion chamber (preignition).

By Edgar F Sanchinelli (Frito) (63.105.29.199) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 10:11 pm:

Bryan, can you please email me I've got some questions.

Thanks

Frito

By Don (199.2.139.202) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 10:05 pm:

Frito Box it up and send it to Bryan. You wont have a problem once you figure out your crank rod problem.
Mugen headers never went through the grill some one told you a story.

By Adrian (Evocivic) (141.168.18.114) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 06:50 pm:

Well they're definitely custom made pistons...

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 06:27 pm:

Let me try this again!

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 06:21 pm:

d:
1.jpg

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 06:03 pm:

there are scores in the block from the wrist pin. i measured from the top of the score tho the bottom of the score an d subtracted the diameter of the wrist pin and it came out to about 86mm. my father measured the crank shaft and he also came out with 86mm.

By Adrian (Evocivic) (141.168.18.114) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 05:19 pm:

Cody are you sure you have a 1500 crank? How have you determined it is such?
You really shouldn't be revving such a long stroke motor (if it is) to those kinds or revs.

By Edgar F Sanchinelli (Frito) (63.105.29.199) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 02:08 pm:

I have several questions regarding building my 1200 motor. Hope someone can give me some valuable insight as to which way to go about putting it together.

Future plans

-1237cc EB3 block
-1335cc rods & crank
-EB3 cyl head
-Mugen RS1 camshaft
-32mm DellOrto dual sidedraft carbs
-Mugen thru the grill header

QUESTION 1
My stroker rods say PA5, now I am questioning
whether or not my crank and rods came from the
1335cc block or a 1400. Can anyone elaborate?

QUESTION 2
Also, as far as pistons (notice I didn't mention
which I am using) go I am really clueless as to
what would be reliable. With my combination,
what do you guys recommend? Goldwings, EB3?
I want what everyone wants, reliability & power.

Thanks

Frito

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 11:59 am:

i have the 1500 cvcc crank in my car. it ran fine till the wrist pin siezed, pushed out one side of the piston, broke an oil ring and scored the block. befoer this i was having no problems with the car at all except for carb problems. it was reving freely to 8500-9000rpm. i have pics pf the crank and girdle of which i will post later today.

By Bryan (66.245.125.252) on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 06:34 am:

I cannot imagine it fitting within the confines of the 1200 block without some major grinding. Just installing ARP rod bolts in Don's stock 1200 bottom end required a slight amount of grinding on the girdle.

I would not want to grind too much off the girdle because it would weaken it.

By Edgar F Sanchinelli (Frito) (63.105.29.199) on Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 08:39 pm:

do you know why it never ran? did it break?

frito

By Don (199.2.139.193) on Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 08:29 pm:

I think it was only started the motor never ran to my knowlege.

By LUCKYLUCIANO2 (68.104.196.30) on Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 06:25 pm:

I THINK ERROL DID THE 1500 CRANK SET UP. WITH 74MM PISTONS IF CAN FIND THE PIC HE SENT ME IL POST THEM.

By Don (199.2.139.209) on Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 03:33 pm:

One thing to remember is rod lenght to stroke ratio. I have no experience in this Honda area, but there are other makes when stroked that are billed as "time bombs" when you run the numbers the short rod combined with a long stroke just stresses things past there limits. So do your home work before getting too envolved.

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (4.3.41.213) on Friday, August 13, 2004 - 11:04 pm:

do you know or remember who has one. i just took apart my block and found out that i have one. big suprise to me.

By Adrian (Evocivic) (141.168.18.114) on Friday, August 13, 2004 - 09:34 pm:

Yes it has been done. I forgot that yes, you need to clearance the bearing cage, or use a 1335 block that has more clearance for the rods already.

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Friday, August 13, 2004 - 08:55 pm:

has anyone ever done this before? is it good or bad? and also dosen't the girdle need to be modified so the rod caps dont hit?

By Adrian (Evocivic) (141.168.18.114) on Friday, August 13, 2004 - 06:00 pm:

You can, but it's expensive. The main journals of the 1500 crank are larger then the 1200 or 1300 crank so they need to be ground down and then re-nitrided (expensive to do properly). Then you need to find rods the right length.

By cody_guldstrand@hotmail.com (Turbo74) (207.182.230.224) on Friday, August 13, 2004 - 12:56 pm:

is it possible to take the bottom end out of a ED1 cvcc motor and put it in and EB1,2,3 block. if so has anyone ever done this before? if so wouldn't it make a 1237cc motor go to 1488cc. and wouldnt that be a lot better than the 1300 bottom end?