Wow that works well I used to change tires for those guys. I see they have a little nicer shop to work out of. You should have seen the dive of a yard they use to have.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 08:31 pm:

Hmm. It didn't ask for pictures.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 08:29 pm:

Pictures!

Here's a rust update.... The acid has been working but I noticed that it didn't clean like I wanted it too. So the acid is limited because it won't remove grease from the cracks. So I've been spending a lot of money for nothing. Acid does work, but you have to be picky about which parts you decide to strip with it.

So I started calling around for a place to dip my parts so I could get it done right! A machine shop recommended that I take my parts to Redi-Strip. http://www.redi-strip.com/index.html (Canadian website) I gave them a call and said they will totally clean it everything (rust included) and leave it with a coating that protects the metal and that can be painted over.

You can see some rust in the pictures because redi-strip screwed up. Instead of dipping my parts, they only sprayed them. I'll take them back and have them reworked. Even though they screwed up, you can see it works great!

The acid works great too, but if you're not comfortable, go to redi-strip or some place similar. For $1200, they'll dip-strip the entire car and coat it.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Monday, October 11, 2004 - 07:40 am:

Ha Ha. Yeah I kinda feel like a freak for having experiments in my back yard, but that'll be it for me. Now that I know what works, I can start working on the car.

By Colza (Colza) (210.54.103.17) on Monday, October 11, 2004 - 02:43 am:

Why not just rinse it off in meths? That wouldnt start rusting and you should be able to paint over it no worries

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 10:55 am:

Here's the picture of the strut mount. It's still dirty, but the large rust was gone with no work. However, inside the mount you can see rust starting to form again. This happened when I rinsed off the CLR. Next time I'll rinse off with paint-prep or alcohol.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Saturday, October 09, 2004 - 09:34 pm:

I found some great stuff for Rust removal. I asked my chemistry teacher about rust removal. He couldn't give me any advice accept that he knew it had to be an acid. I went to home depot and bought two things CLR and Muriatic Acid.

The muriatic acid worked very well and very fast! I don't recommend this product unless you're going to water it down...heavily. I popped in some rusted bolts and within 5 minutes the rust was gone. Raw, pitted (from rust) metal was left, but it was rust free. The odor was very strong and didn't want to work with it again.

The CLR also worked. Because it was a weeker formula than the muriatic acid, it took longer. I soaked by strut mount for 1 week and it looked beautiful when I took it out. No rust and it didn't effect the rubber at all. I could live with the CLR odor...not too bad. The CLR is great for my schedule because it only takes a few seconds to drop a part in the solution. No sanding or sand blasting. It strips off the old paint too! I bought a plastic bucket with a sealable lid and put it in the back yard. A week later it was ready for me. Do not put bearings in CLR or Acid!

The CLR or acid will have to rinsed off. I think I can buy some paint prep stuff to wash off the acid without causing more rust, but I haven't tried it yet.

Hope this helps for removing rust.

D

By Christoph (209.89.90.251) on Monday, September 06, 2004 - 09:42 pm:

Check out these Dudes.
http://www.redi-strip.com/page2.htm
I was quoted $1600 Canadian to dip a Civic Body.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 08:39 pm:

Thanks shreck.

I feel the same way. I don't want anything too toxic since it'll be in my garage. I'm not against sandblasting at all, but I wanted to restore a part that was hallow with rust on the inside. I figured a liquid would work its way into the cracks of the part.

Did you use Naval Jelly? That stuff is really strong. I heard some "wives tales" about rust removal, like table sryup. I think there's something about rust that bothers me...I don't know what it is. I know a chemical process is taking place, but I don't know what the chemicals are or how to interrupt it. I do believe it can be stopped or removed with holdhold chemicals, but I want to know what they are. I think I'll break down buy some of that stuff on ebay.

I just don't want a few gallons of toxic waste in my garage. Thanks for your help,
Darrell

By shreck (66.185.85.79) on Friday, September 03, 2004 - 11:45 pm:

Darrll
I have used acid rust removers (not this product) but found on a large project it was just as easy to sand blast it for me as the car was stripped of just about everything except the motor.

One of the reasons I opted for sand blasting is that it was a quicker process and not as messy as using acid. Clean up can be a problem too if you plan on painting as the recommend to use water for clean up. This would be a no-no as it will start the rusting process right away, usually the residue left behind protects the paint from further rusting and can be beneficial in areas that cannot be seen when painted over.

When I used the acid I had to scrape the loose rust and paint off anyway. Now I only use the rust remover to dip small parts in for cleaning stubborn rust.

These are my experiences using rust removers versus sand blasting and it depend on the area being treated as well as the ease of access to the affected rust at to what method you feel comfortable using.

My 2 cents, hope this helps

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Friday, September 03, 2004 - 07:57 pm:

Sorry about the errors

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Friday, September 03, 2004 - 07:41 pm:

I know, I know.

I'm having a conversation with myself, but I know most of us are interested in rust removal so here's the scoop.

I asked some of the people who bought the solution from ebay. Both people said it worked liked it....

Heres what they said.

Hi I've used this before ,I'm in the process of re-doing a 65 mustang and as you know after almost 50 years there's alot rust , it's been good for what I've been using for it will clean it to bare metal and then I've been able to blow the paint on , Hope this has answered your question.

Yes, I would recommend it. There are some other stronger products out there. But I wasn't looking for anything too toxic where you needed industrial grade protective gloves. It's still recommended that gloves be worn with this product, though. Hope that helps.

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 10:00 am:

Has anybody used this stuff?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73464&item=3836502925&rd=1

By Darrell--Arizona-- (68.109.151.121) on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 10:58 pm:

Thank you. I'll check some local paint shops and maybe a machine shop too.

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 01:16 pm:

Darrel, some places can dip the support in a primer under a charge, and put the opposite charge on the front support. The primer will be attracted to the support, even on the inside. It's called electro-deposit priming. I'm not sure where you would be able to have it done, though. Another thing you might want to try if there's no flaking rust is to pour some POR-15 on the inside and roll it around in there to cover all the surfaces.

Good luck getting back into the project!

By Darrell--Arizona-- (131.52.121.101) on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 10:18 am:

What's up guys?

Well my civic has been sitting there forever. I'm not sure what to do with it. Part of me wants to sell it, but I still want it.

After taking over a year away from the car, I decided to check it out and see where I left off. I rememberd that I stopped after I removed the lower front support and noticed it had rust. I wasn't comfortable with a half-ass job of rust removal. Inside the part still had flaking rust and debris. I wanted to take the large part to a "hot tank."

I remember getting my head machined and they "hot tanked" it. Could they do the same for the lower support? Would it remove rust? What's a good way to clean and remove rust from the part inside and out if the Hot Tank won't work?

Thanks,
Darrell