Richard,
I use a weber with one of those clunky adapter paltes, and i had such a big gap between the carb and adapter that you could lift up one side almost an 1/8 in.!!! what i did was pull the carb, trace the gaskets with gasket paper, then use (fuel resistant) gasket sealant with the new gaskets and button it back up...CHA CHING!! Smooth sailing...runs alot better.. also i have all emissions disconnected, and the big pipe under the rear of the carb cam "un-taped" (electrical tape..long story) which was such a big leak my poor car died completely.. how i found it was by holding it running my hand and listening and feeling for the sucking sounds....i ended up shoving something in there, but need to seal it for real, since you can cover the barrels with your hand and it still runs...anyways hope some of this ramblin helps

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.190.188) on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 12:41 pm:

I rebuilt the carb and set everything up just right.. put it all back together and man does it run smooth.. my problem though is that the idle stays aroud 1500 RPM and I can't coax it down by changing the mixture screw or throttle screw. So I guess I have an excess of air getting in at idle. there's two things I can think of. the throttle valve closes, but it opes with a tiny click whick makes me think that the valve isn't closing fully. The second thing is that the carb base gaskets might be shot (they didn't come with the rebuild kit) and they're not sealing anymore. I also still have the problem of the car suddenly running rough when warming up (5-10 minutes or running) and then stalling, but a few pumps of the accelerator and everything is kosher again. This stalling thing was happening before I rebuild the carb. Anyone experienced this and know the remedy? I'm sure I can track it down, but it beats throwing money at a problem that's easily fixed.

-Richard