yeah.. the solenoid and the evap line were connected.. this picture was from when i was removing the carb. I'm interested in where the lines with the bolts in them are routed now.. I didn't really think much of it, but that could be one of my issues..

By Justin (209.153.255.43) on Thursday, December 02, 2004 - 11:27 am:

Is the anti diesel solenoid hooked up(there should be a ignition line that triggers the solenoid)It looks like the wire that is in the picture.. If it is not hooked up, the car will not run smoothly at idle..

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.190.188) on Thursday, December 02, 2004 - 08:16 am:

Uhh... the previous owner of the car cut out all that stuff and plugged them with bolts :D perhaps that would be a wise thing to hook back up? can I even buy all the stuff needed to make the hot air circuit run again? Here's a picture from when i was taking the carb off.. I mean, it's only getting down to 5 degrees.. not super cold...



-Richard

By Jason (Roadwarrior) (24.80.29.179) on Thursday, December 02, 2004 - 03:11 am:

i have similar problems with my 77 civic, but only when the engine is cold. once it is warmed up completely, it runs fine. I think it is due to carburetor icing.

hey, you might want to check that the hot air hose is connected to the hot air scoop (heat scoop) on the front of the exhaust manifold.
Another thing to check is the operation of the vacuum operated flapper that controls the hot/cold air that is drawn into the air cleaner assembly.( you will need a source of vacuum to test, like a vacuum pump)

if that flapper vacuum motor checks out fine, it could be bi-metallic vacuum switch that controls the vacuum line connected to the vacuum flapper motor, located inside the air cleaner. it is supposed to be closed when the engine is cold, and open when the engine is hot.

btw, the light flicker problem you have is related to worn out brushes in your alternator.
you could probably look into finding some replacement brushes, and replace them yourself.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.31.167) on Thursday, December 02, 2004 - 01:58 am:

Grounded properly? That can cause all sorts of wierd ••••.

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.190.188) on Wednesday, December 01, 2004 - 11:13 pm:

I don't supose that's what made you change the carb, eh? :D Yeah it's a cable choke. idle speed is fine for normal running, becaus eit doesn't stall at any other time, but fast idle adjustment might be the ticket in case at a certain point when the vacuum isn't opening the dashpot, the car idle may be going too low. I'll take the screwdriver and play with the fast idle adjustment when i get a spare minute. any other stuff I should look for while under the hood?

-Richard

By Kyle Thomson (24.83.12.187) on Wednesday, December 01, 2004 - 11:03 pm:

have you checked the idle speed is high enough? what kind of choke are you using? the stock cable one?

sorry i'm probably not much help, i'm using the weber dgv, and I don't remember what kind of adjustments the stock carbs use. Just seems like the problems I faced last year when it started getting colder

By Chaffneue (Chaffneue) (66.183.190.188) on Wednesday, December 01, 2004 - 10:55 pm:

(1977 HB EB-2 1200) my fuel gremlin came back today (500km after fixing the carb and ignition) ..Problem: the car sputters and dies during warmup a few pumps of the gas and it comes back to life like nothing happened, and doesn't usually stall again. so it's gotta be something heat or moisture related. I've renewed the whole ignition except the coil. rebuilt the carb and changed all the fuel filters and flexible fuel lines. so I guess my next course of action would be either the coil, alternator or the fuel pump (coils don't really fail very often and the resistor is dead cold, so I don't think it's the coil). I cleaned the gas cap out.. I'm pretty sure it's open, but it's hard to test.. I tried pulling it out when it's idling rough (30 seconds before it stalls) and it doesn't help (there's a tiny bit of pressure though when you pull it out an audible "pfssss" is heard). I notice that the lights are pulsating slightly, but that might be normal, they dim out significantly when it starts to stall. I'm getting little clicks in my CD player too that happen even when the car is stopped at a light.. so I'm thinking that AC might be getting on the line. The alternators working, it puts 14.6V pretty constant out at the battery terminals when the car is idling. I don't think the alternator, no matter it's condition, affects the actual running of the car though. Then there's the fuel pump could be faulty.. but I guess they're mechanical pumps on these cars and it's not leaking, so I don't know what to look for in troubleshooting it. seems to me it would either work or not work, none of this intermittent crap. I guess it could also be a carb setting. one thing I noticed is that there was gas in the dashpot valve when I was rebuilding the carb. I emptied it out, but it filled up again 20k later when I put the new carb base gasket in. there's no filter, so I guess that's normal? anyone know what's going on? I hate gremlins.

-Richard