Drivetrain slack / CVCC aux. valve chambers
Civic1200 Discussion Board: : Drivetrain slack / CVCC aux. valve chambers
The tranny is from a 82 Accord. No idea how many miles are on it(i bought the package from Colby before he left the honda scene).
For the cvcc, I would continue to use the auxiliary valve as a source of intake(it's necessary for the spark to ignite), but I wonder if I could get a more complete combustion by losing the restriction. Long ago in my troublesome engine days(this summer), I knew the problem was arising from the aux valves. I decided to try backing off the tappets from the valves entirely before troubleshooting everything i could think of again. It only took a few seconds of unsuccessful cranking to consider the location of the plug and the lack of gas thereof. Anyways, my point is if the cvcc valves are necessary, does it really mean the dividing "chamber" is necessary? Someday I'll get me one uthem newfangled EL heads
Jarcaf...
What year is the tranny? Early 1st Gen trannies all seemed to have weak 2nd gear sycros. The 2nd Gen version was not as bad. It is uncommon to need to rebuild a tranny at the first engine replacement, unless it has been driven carelessly.
As far as messing with the CVCC aux valves, just because you have a Weber on there does not mean the CVCC valve is not functioning, trust me if it stops working you will know it. I don't think what you were thinking of trying will work and it will probably make matters worse. As bad as the CVCC crap is for performance, is must be kept functioning well. Your only other real option is to source a non CVCC head. It will make a noticeable improvement in everyway the engine functions.
Good point. I'll look into it when pulling out the tranny for a clutch job(chatters). I'm thinking the tranny that's on mine wasn't actually rebuilt at the time the engine was. 2nd gear grinds occasionally and rolling downshifts into first are only sometimes possible w/ double clutching. Is it possible to rebuild/replace the worn parts in the diff?
1. i had the same problem with my GM tranny on my EM1, the tranny was pretty well shot, 250 XXX+ miles tends to do that (5th gear no longer worked at the time) and the "slack" got so bad that the cv shaft on the passenger side kept slipping out far enough that the splines didn't catch (really annoying going dead on the highway) my initial thought was the cv's so i replaced both of them (both pretty well used) and still no solution. about a week later i went to mess around with the drivers side cv and when i pulled it out the bearing and seal on the tranny fell out and it was all mangled. i ended up swapping my Accord GK tranny which i was planning on using when i did the swap. i didn't bother looking into fixing it because i had the accord tranny but what i figured happened to it was either it was just the bearing seals on either side were both shot or the diff. was so worn out that it created the "slack" and it was that that caused the bearing seals to wear out.
I decided to combine the 2 for the sake of space:
1. I've had this problem with both my EM1, and now w/ my EK1-When pulling off the throttle to engine brake and when reapplying throttle, it simply feels like there's just a lot of slack in the drivetrain. I'm assuming this is the cause of the motor mounts, but I don't know for sure or which ones. What should I do about this?
2. For any of you webered cvcc guys, have you tried removing the auxiliary valve chamber cap? Its intended purpose of providing resistance to the stratified charge is now obsolete, so all I see now is this perforated wall dividing the cylinder and interfering with combustion. This will obviously change the compression ratio, so w/ a turbo application, would this be a reasonable/safe way to control detonation?