no problem. Id love to know how to show you on the computer. We just got out first difgicam and I cant figure out haw to make the picture files smaller so there not HUGE. If your near marysville swing buy one day. Ive got the engine on a stand awaiting teardow and mockup fitment. The parts are in a box and minus the smoked clutch in the car its ready to roll on the all the suspension mods. WQee can go for a ride. My buddy rob is the one I got started on a project similar to this and hes almost done. Have a family sure puts a hurt on the toy expenses. Thats ok though.

By lilbucu (24.16.243.28) on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 03:17 am:

wow, so mike, you're putting all of that into a 88 accord? very cool.

a shop that is pretty hard core around washington is intec racing. i've never delt with them personaly, but i hear that they know what they are doing. there are alot of hard core race shops in the industrial areas of kent. the mostly work on muscle cars and such so they are a resource that not many people know of. there are shops that can make manifolds, cams, do headwork, rebuild turbos etc.

i'm from washington too!! id like to see pictures of your project as your oging along

John

By mike (67.183.6.41) on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 11:59 pm:

my kit as sits so far. Im going to upgrade to OBD1 and go with an uberdata control. simple maybe a weekend event. from there ive got hks super sequential BOV, tial 35mm wastegate, hks evc 4, apexi super afc (wont be using since Im going to uberdata), I sparco FMIC 28x3x9 2.5 endcaps. A little large for the 12-15 psi Im running now but should work nicely when I go to the gt28rs. swaping out to a b18 or b16 intake shorter and more straight flowing than the b20a plus the huge choice of aftermarket fuel rails, TB and such. 2.5 exhaust no cat. with resonator and supertrapp muffler. 2.25 charge pipes. I think thats about it. Im going to run stock 9.1:1 compression srp pistons, eagle rods, arp bolts, quaife b16 LSD, oringed head/block, Not sure If im going to resleeve the closed deck or not. It should hold if i keep it tuned right. maybe 1mm over on the ferroce(spelling) valves. other than that I cant think of anything else. I wish i would have invested the $$ Ive got in this car in the 1200. id be a pimp little car. Ive already got over 7k in the turbo project and I havent started rebiulding the engine yet. Anyone know a shop on the west coast preferrably in washington that specializes in imports or would know what there doing if I asked them to do aproject this big. Im expecting quite a bit and so far have spared no expence. Id like to biuld the engine to take the full brunt of the 25 psi gt28rs at 7-7500 rpm. Yes it will be professionally dyno tuned

Which toyo's the fz4/t1s (cant remember which ones which all the sudden) or the proxes?

By John (67.180.167.118) on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 06:25 pm:

Don! Don't tell people to work on their suspension first!! It's much too fun to drub motorheads at the racetrack with a 70 HP Civic. The excuses they come up with to explain their humiliation are just priceless.

Well, I guess it is more fun to give them fair warning. I must admit that I always give the same advice (particularly for autoxing). But after they have been warned... they're fair game.

Mike, considering that you are starting out I would recomend the Toyos. There not quite as fast as the Kumhos, but they'll last longer and remain very consistent through their life span (performance degradation is very slow).

BTW, what are you runing for an intercooler on your car? What about the blow off valve?

By Don (199.2.139.163) on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 08:06 am:

http://www.scca.org/_filelibrary/File/2005SoloRules.pdf

By mike (67.183.6.41) on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 06:56 am:

uspension Im running addco front and rear sway bars. Dc sport front tower brace. Sprint springs on koni red adjustable with an optional external dampening. Im currently running millie miglia spyder 2 in 16x7 with yokohama prada spec 2 runners in 205/50/16 I think. Something like that. The turbo I have now hould spool rioght off idle. Its a 42/48 with a t3 turbine. My 2.0l should get that going at full boost by 2000-2200 from the number Ive found and the formulas I try to understand. which website would i use to find out the locatings and rulles for those classes. Thanks DON. Oh and the car isnt terribly heavy but at over 2k its heavy enough for me. Should I swap to a kumho 712 tire?

By Don (199.2.139.216) on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 06:41 am:

More power wont help you around an autocross couse
until you get the suspension worked out. Turbos dont usually do so hot because of lag and then the sudden bust of power breaks the tires loose and off course you go.
My 70hp 1200 civic ran within two seconds in a two minute run of a 500 hp cobra kit car all season long. Next season with the mods over the winter I will probably be wooping his times on a regular basis.
Work on the Chassis first. as far as classing maybe STR or SM if you fit. If not then you may have to run OSPO if they offer that.

By mike (67.183.6.41) on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 11:05 pm:

well Im planning on starting that this summer with an 88 accord coupe. Ive got a JDM b20a1. Its a 160 HP 137 lb/ft. 16 valve dohc motor. Im running a custom turbo setup 12-15 psi will probably swap it out for a gt28rs turbo if it feels ok. Im hoping for 250 as it sits now and near 325-350 with the upgraded turbo. Im not sure which class to try but Ive been told to start with the sccca.com site any thoughts.

By John S. (68.92.155.216) on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 05:19 pm:

Long as you don't break anything...

By Don (199.2.139.150) on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 04:52 pm:

There are cheaper classes to race in.... Get a set of sticky street tires and try autocrossing its loads of fun and pretty inexpensive.

By mike (67.183.6.41) on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 04:40 pm:

wow thats an eye opener. I was WAY off. No I thought that i saw that kit in a post a while back listed under all kits made for the 1200. cool. Have you talked to frito since the last time you said you had? Im curious as to how the disposal of the car is going. Namely whats the highest offer hes gotten so far or if its stilff for sale. Id hate to call him and put him in an uncomfortable position you know. Thanks Don. Mike

By Don (199.2.139.160) on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 06:27 am:

Most nationaly competitive Gt5 and Production cars sell for about 25-30K. To build one would take more than that!
So I would think the car would be in that range. The Houseman transmission cost about what you were thinking for the car
So have you been looking at the show cars site again, those guys are dummer than dirt. They are confusing because they list both styles of body kits under both names and make none.
Malleys kit came from king and is the Mugen style.

By mike (67.183.6.41) on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 10:43 pm:

so out of curiousity only because Ive never raced and I really couldnt afford it if i wanted to it sounds like. His car is nice and all. Would it be like the 6k you see every now and then or is it more like a 8-10k? Either way I love the look of the car. Is that the ISMA or the king widebody kit? Thanks and good luck with the sell

By Don (199.2.139.237) on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 08:59 pm:

Ya right those are the big boys $$$$$$$. Someone else will run the car. Its most likely not going to sit for the money it will most likely bring. There are a bunch of 1st gen civics being raced... its just not everyone likes to visit this board.

By Kurt (205.250.75.226) on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 03:37 pm:

So whats he going to race if its for sale? Guess we lose some 1st gen representation...your turn to step up to the plate Don or Ted

By Don (199.2.139.188) on Friday, December 24, 2004 - 10:07 am:

Malley runs in a full prep (GP) or GT5. Both classes require big $$$ to run up front. The added weight isn't a factor when the make you run at 1800 plus pounds. PS Malley car is for sale.. no price listed, I think its an if you have to ask its too much type of deal

By John S. (66.143.35.243) on Thursday, December 23, 2004 - 06:42 pm:

Hey Don,
Just out of curiosity would they allow a mod such as that in the class you normally run in, or are in a class closer to stock? Hard to say if the extra track advantage would offset the slowed transient response caused by the added weight, but it might...you sure wouldn't have to worry about brake fade. In any case you'd probably be clippin some cones 'till you got use to it.

By John S. (66.143.47.85) on Wednesday, December 22, 2004 - 04:14 pm:

Zippy, et. all. That is, to my mind the only drawback to doing the rear disc brake swap on any of the 1st or 2nd Gen cars. Using factory spec parts adds a lot of weight...unsprung weight, the racers nightmare. Of course if you are using aluminum struthousings and drill out the rotors, and use aluminum calipers etc. one can probably pare it down to a reasonable level. Works for Alan doesn't it. But for our street cars, we definitely give up some of that factory designed "nimble" feeling to have the more fade resistant brakes and more flash.
Some time ago, when many of us were geared up to go the 2nd Gen wagon rear drum route, Adrian mentioned the fact that even to do that (this is before anyone had sorted the rear disc swap), would add a noticeable amount of weight, and simply wasn't necessary as the 2nd Gen Hatch brakes worked superb anyway . So honestly if you want the best handling setup, and you can only afford to use only factory parts, the 2nd Gen rear drum is the way to go. Always depends on what you are going to do with your car.

By Zippy (Zippy) (12.106.14.107) on Wednesday, December 22, 2004 - 06:52 am:

I am struck by what appears to be a significant increase in the size/weight of the Prelude parts.

By John S. (66.143.46.86) on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 - 09:02 pm:

a Ha,
Well I guess if you are going racing that might just be the ticket, but one would need the flare kit and some radical wheel spacers on the front for it all to look right. I bet it took awhile for him to get that puppie dialed in though. Time is money...

By Don (199.2.139.163) on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 - 08:08 pm:

http://www.civic1200.com/discus/messages/1/8575.jpg
Check the wheel offset difference front and rear ...things that make you go hmmmm

By John S. (66.143.35.85) on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 - 12:27 am:

I think that by trying to go that route you will end up with serious alignment issues. Someone else tried to do it that way once before, and I don't think they were able to make it work...but then maybe they just never posted that they did. I still say that it is hard to beat the setup that Justin used on the convertible, and others are currently using on their projects, which does not use the Prelude axle/axlehousing, but the 1st Gen Civic one.

By sdcvcc (68.101.197.93) on Monday, December 20, 2004 - 11:58 pm:

A couple of us San Diego guys hit the junkyard on Sunday. We pulled and compared side by side Prelude Si rear disks with a 78 Civic rear. Thanks to Justin for the lead on that.
We measured and it looks like as already stated, the knuckle and entire brake assembly will bolt on. The Prelude lower arm can be used if it is centered and lined up with a custom bracket replacing the stock one. With Prelude rear setup there is a 4-5" wider track overall. The strut assembly fits until the wider spring hits the top area of the wheel well. Stock struts could be used with a shim sleeve at the bottom of the strut. The other modifications will be the torque rod mounting and adition of a swaybar.

It isnt a one day swap, but a definite possibility for those with the time and sourcing.
I will be doing a pictorial when I mod this to fit on my 75 in a few weeks.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/joelandtammy/album?.dir=98c1&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/joelandtammy/my_photos