Idle mixture and speed screw is where?

Civic1200 Discussion Board: : Idle mixture and speed screw is where?
By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.148.28.6) on Saturday, April 02, 2005 - 11:05 pm:

ok I have adjusted the timing a little better on the car. it was pinging under any load at lower rpms (2200 and lower. don't know what it is set to right though since I didn't use a timing light. mainly set it by moving the dizzy to where I was right below the point that gave me detonation at those. it seems in the proccess of doing so I also don't use as much throttle anymore :).
also I did manage to get the idle down to around 800rpms or so but any lower at it runs really fairly rough. but the main problem now is when I let off the clutch it will fall down to about 500rpms or so run rough for a few seconds and then either go up to around 800rpms or more then likely it will just stall on me.
this seems to happen if the idle is any lower then 1000rpms.

as far as vacuum leaks I guess there could be but I am almost doubting it since at idle of 800rpms I am getting around 20-22" of vacuum and holding fairly steady


am I barking up the wrong tree by going to the idle mixture screw or might that help out a little in this situation?

By Tom (24.20.14.22) on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 03:53 pm:

Tracy
With the air box installed and any vaccum lines that are not connected make sure they are pluged IE: bolt stuck in line so you have no vaccum leaks. Spray carb clean around carb area and base plate. This will tell you if you have any vaccum leaks that would cause the vehicle to run lean. If there is no real measurable increase in rpm remove the air cleaner top and spray a shot of carb clean down the main venturi - closest one to firewall of the vehicle and check rpm gain or increase in rpm. Depending on the vehicle, weather its auto or manual, the increase will vary and since I don't have a manual here at the house I can not give you the specs, but if you have an increase of more than lets say 150 rpm gain you are running excessively lean. Make sure when doing this test to use external tach if possible to get an accurate reading of rpm increase. This will indicate possibly a plugging idle circuit, misrouted vac lines, misadjusted idle mixture, etc. The main mixture screw is locacted on the lower plate of the carb closest to the firewall. If you can e-mail a picture of your carb and the vac lines that are not connected I may be able to help you further on this problem but trying to diagnoise a problem over the internet or phone is hard to do. I have been with Honda for 25 years and am not surprized at what has been tried or twikted on some of these vehicles. The hose that runs from the top of the vale cover runs to what is called a condensation chamber to reburn vapors.

Tom

By errol (152.163.100.199) on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 04:31 am:

Look under your hood (If it's a stock hood with stickers of the vacume line routings)
Don't start touching and "adjusting"..
One of the first causes with rough idling is sunken floats and then broken or split vacume lines and third is getting someone who doesnt know about the Honda 3-barrel carbs.
They're very fickle, The floats if they are the plastic ones, absorb fuel and sink into the gas bowl and causes it to run very rich until the point of just dying out and maybe cylinder wash.
It may seem daunting but don't give up. It might just take a few hours and some NEW, correct size line to get it running right.
Or it could be someone was exploring and decided that Honda shouldn't have so many lines and started tossing stuff that may have to be replaced.
There are some people on Ebay that sell old stock of carbs at fairly reasonable prices also.
You should be able to get the car to idle around 600-750 without dying when ajusted correctly.
Pull your sparkplugs and keep them in order to see which ones are fouled or just look abnormal. (did you try and replace the plugs?)
One more thing,, While it's running, pull one or both the vacume lines to the distributor to see if it runs worse or no change at all.
If no change, your vacume advance-can on the distributor is probably shot and isn't 'advancing' until the RPM's gets over 1000 to use the mechanical advance inside the distributor.
It's a RAT-NEST to get into but if the plugs don't look that bad, it may be just a split line

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.128.110.235) on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 - 11:07 am:

for my 76 accord just wondering which one is where on the carb.
right now it runs fine as long as it is above 1000-1100 rpms but below that is starts to shake and run a little rough so hoping a little fixing with the mixture might even it out a little bit just need to know which screw is which unless you guys have other ideas.

another thing I notice on the top of the valve cover there is a hose that reminds me of a pvc system and it attaches to a piece on the intake cleaner. looks like also in that same area there are two more hoses that can be attached and they aren't. any idea where they should go or what they are for? it's on a piece of the air cleaner housing that sticks down that's all I know


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