I had a Honda tech who has a stroker eb3 with RS exhaust and a larger than stock carb, cam... drive my eb2 and he thought it was comprable to his stroker. I never drove his though. Carberation, cam and exhaust can make a huge differnce in output!

By Yellowcivic (67.137.137.134) on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 04:57 am:

I think they should be close to the same CR. The stroker should be a bit higher though.

By Hugh Johnson (Oneson1) (144.138.198.35) on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 02:36 am:

whats the difference in compression ratio between the motors? thats where a lot of the apparent power difference lies.

hugh

By Yellowcivic (67.137.137.134) on Sunday, April 03, 2005 - 05:00 pm:

You know the eb2 cam runs with a lumpy idel and won't idel below 1000RPMS The eb3 runs smoother. I'm still betting the cam is the difference. I'd bet the header will make a big difference over the RS exhaust too.

By yellowcivic (67.137.137.134) on Sunday, April 03, 2005 - 04:53 pm:

No really John, The eb3 is dialed in. I say that but I do have the timing advance lower than the eb2 to keep it from pinging. The cam is hotter than stock but the eb2 cam is hot! Delta did a first rate job on that cam. This was my first from them. It died when the oil drive gear went. So When I got the replacement it didn't run well at all. I called Delta and they had me send the old one and they coppied it. Wish I had them do 4 cams at that time. I also note that the hot cam eb2 engine gets better fuel economy than the eb3 and yet runs better. David

By John S. (69.148.166.40) on Sunday, April 03, 2005 - 04:16 pm:

I have to believe that if your EB2 is doing a better job of it than the EB3 setup, you just don't have the EB3 dialed in yet. I had a hopped up EB3 stroker for years, and 7000RPM was NO sweat, though I rarely asked that much from it. I'd guess you've got a timing, or jetting problem. It might even be the Cam as you said. And by the way I was running an Weber DGEV 32/36, on one of the custom DGV manifolds A/T Enginneering made for them, so with your side drafts you should have better power still.

By Yellowcivic (67.137.138.153) on Friday, April 01, 2005 - 04:19 pm:

Kellyp,
I have the 1300 crank, oversized pistons and RS carbs and exhaust in my EB3. Compared to my eb2 It seems to have more low end tork. The eb2 has the same except a old style thunderbird header and I think the Delta cam is a bit hotter (both are the same grind # but Delt not keeping their standars up you never can tell what you will get). My eb2 runs circles around the stroked eb3 at top end. Its got a great top end power band. It loves 6K!! I think the eb2 head flows better for high RPM. Never dyno but I'm thinking close to 100HP on the eb2. I'm planning on trying some other varations my next build. I have a 32-36 kicking around I thought I would try some day just to see how it works. I think I will try a header on the EB3 and see what differance that will make over the rs exhaust manifold. I would love to dyno my EB2.
David

By Kellyp (Kellyp) (4.152.198.125) on Friday, April 01, 2005 - 12:20 pm:

Thanks, now were getting somewhere. I know the 32/36 is a progressive carb which basically is great for economy and flows more than the stocker did. i would love nothing else that a set of dual DCOES the sound of it at about 6000 rpm makes me drool, but I want to keep the car streetable and reliable. So no 5 angle valve jobs, hogged out ports, crappy lumpy cams, and a carb setup to make power but isnt driveable you know. And aftermarket parts for us are getting pretty slim. I want the car to run all day long without worry so maybe swapping to a modern setup with aftermarket parts availability would be a better route. Im just trying to get feedback to help my mental debate. Thanks

By Kurt (205.250.75.226) on Friday, April 01, 2005 - 11:08 am:

I guess the bottom line here is that the 32/36 will work but if you want to generate a lot of power with one of these motors you need to 'open' it up. I ran the 32/36 on my EL and it was ok but HUGE gains were had when I went to dual carbs. Just going back to the basics of getting more air and fuel into the motor

The D16 will be the dirtiest route to more HP but its a completely different ball game doing a swap than building up a motor.

By Kellyp (Kellyp) (4.152.117.42) on Friday, April 01, 2005 - 07:20 am:

This in not my first 1200 first of all. The first car I bought had a BHG and other misc. problems and I fixed everything without a manual. Then I got the car running, took it to my place and put the 32/36 on it and tuned it like my nice Haynes Weber Carb manual says and it was great. I got the jetting, idle, etc dead on. I know about the transverse/longitude layout issues and hard cornering problems, I never brought that up in the post now did I? If your too stupid to assume things about me than yes its not worth your time or mine to read your disrespectfull comments. I also have graduated second grade and I learned how to use the Keyword search. My post was about dyno results versus cost effectiveness and so far none of replies have answered that. Spending $600+ on a carb setup versus a D16 setup I can roughly get for the same price is what the post is about...

By Don (63.135.203.122) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 08:44 pm:

Get educated on the 1200 then make statements like that. A 1200 is not a toyota datsun or jeep...I'm not joking but if your too stupid to try and except good advice when its given, then its not worth my time here. There are reasons why the 32/36 is a dud in a honda (and the main problem has nothing to do with HP) if you go searching the archives you may find out the answer

By Kellyp (Kellyp) (4.152.117.181) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 08:38 pm:

What are you guys talking about. Every racing catalog I own has 32/36 weber carbs listings for dozens of vehicles. Taking off my stock 1200 carb and putting on the 32/36 made a dramatic difference. I sure hope your joking. I know there are tons British, Italian, and Japanese race cars out there making a whole lot more than 100 hp with their 32/36 setup...

By Don (63.135.203.122) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 07:19 pm:

No the 32/36 sucks! Dont put that on there just to choke off what you started. At the least take John up om his for sale add and get him to sell you the 40/40 dcn and reworked manifold.

By Kellyp (Kellyp) (4.152.117.181) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 07:12 pm:

Well short of spending $250 on a dual DCOE manifold and a pair of 40 DCOEs for upwards of $400+. Ive seen 32/36 on big 2.4 toyota motors and jeeps so maybe the 1.3 can handle the 32/36...

By Aryl (Aryl) (216.99.201.240) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 05:31 pm:

mabey i'm off base, but don't you think a better carb would suit that setup more?

By Kellyp (Kellyp) (4.152.198.153) on Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 03:36 pm:

I am in the planning phase of my 79 trunk restoration and I want to know if anyone has actual dyno numbers to back up the mods they have done to the EN/EJ swap. I want to do the stroker swap with 1300 crank/rods/goldwing pistons/32-36 weber/header/etc but how much power is this really making? I would love the sleeper engine bay look but I would also like upwards of 100hp too. My brother in law Jamie is in the process of a D16 swap so maybe I will do one too if its not really worth it costwise to do the EB/EN stroker. Any comments well appreiciated.