Hey Justin, would you be able to get one of those drive shafts made for me?? I can send you my shaft and the 88 one also if you need them. Let me know how much it would cost. I can ship it there on my fedex account and you can send it back, also on my Fedex account.
Let me know
Dave
davidp76@rogers.com

By Justin (24.87.106.22) on Sunday, April 10, 2005 - 07:46 am:

you only need to replace the long side (driver's) you can use your original shaft, just the new modified inboard is all you need

Darren, for my zc, I ended up having a set of shafts cut down and resplined to fit the second gen outboards. It originally cost me $600.00 for the pair, but with the new machine shop I deal with, I might be able to get them cheaper I'll find out

By Firstgencivic (Firstgencivic) (69.197.54.33) on Saturday, April 09, 2005 - 02:11 pm:

Hey Justin, Is it possible to get me a set made up, of the drive shafts with the hex in it for the 88-91 tranny.
Let me know how much you want for the set. I can even send you down my stock 1200 ones for you as a spare set for you. I will pay for shipping, I'm in toronto..Let me know
Dave
davidp76@rogers.com

By Justin (24.87.106.22) on Saturday, April 09, 2005 - 08:26 am:

Machine shop I'll take some pics early in the week

By 78si (78si) (199.126.182.79) on Saturday, April 09, 2005 - 08:11 am:

Justin how are you cutting these hex patterns??

When I made my driver axle I spliced the 78 and the 90 shafts. I machined them with a press fit male/female ends then had Guyon Racing weld & sleeve them. It worked but, It was starting to twist on the smaller diameter 78 side. With my new ZC engine and trans I'll have to make up an equal length set. I'm trying to figure out a stronger method.

By Justin (199.60.112.10) on Friday, April 08, 2005 - 10:03 am:

basically if you pull apart a first gen axle, the inboard uses a 6 ball cage, and the later '88 uses a 3 bearing style, the shafts and splines are not the same so you can't interchange the parts. basically we thru the stub axles in the lathe, and cut the stub end off of the 1st gen axle(and then proceeded to cut a hex pattern into the inboard)and on the '88 and later axle we did the opposite(cut the inboard and turned the stub end into a hex) it's a press fit, and then welded in place The next one I do, I'll post pics of it

By Firstgencivic (Firstgencivic) (69.197.54.33) on Thursday, April 07, 2005 - 06:26 pm:

Thanks Justin. I just found out that those early tanks are baffled inside, I guess thats why it works good. With the drive shafts, you actually had to make , or extend the inner side of the shaft??? Any pics would help. Thaks for your help Justin
Dave

By justin (199.60.112.10) on Thursday, April 07, 2005 - 12:19 pm:

The fuel pump works great, even at low fuel levels, it runs fine. The radiator on the few that I have done is from a VW, (early rabbits) I try to find the ones with external fillers (I then use a inline filler on the top rad hose) works great! What tranny are you using? I found that I had to custom make a inboard to keep the axles in.. the driver's side on the factory axles is a little to short to keep the splines engaged when using the '88- '91 civic tranny, the '88 '-91 civic axles have a longer stub end so it goes in to the tranny deeper, I'll post pics of what I did!

Justin

By Firstgencivic (Firstgencivic) (69.197.54.33) on Thursday, April 07, 2005 - 11:46 am:

Hey Justin, sorry to bring this up again, but I'm doing a d16z6 swap on my 79 1200 and I have a few questions about your FI conversion concerning fuel delivery.
I read up that, that you used a 90-94 Ford F150 in-line fuel pump on your swaps. Is this the only external pump you mount?, no in-tank pump? Is the pressure enough ? and do you ever get any bogging of the engine around turns from the fuel swishing around(if you only used an external pump)?
Any other advice you can give me with this swap would be helpful, especially regarding what Radiator to use.
Thanks Justin
Dave