22-29 lbs ft for the conrol arm ball joint
29-35 lbs ft for the tie rod ball joint
29-35 lbs ft for the tie rod locknut
87-130 lbs ft for the front spindel nut
51-65 lbs ft for the wheel nuts

By bruce (70.106.183.207) on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 01:51 pm:

tight

By Colza (Colza) (210.54.193.164) on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 03:24 pm:

Ok cheers for that guys =) And what torque do they get done up to when you put the castle nuts back on?

By Justin (199.60.112.10) on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 01:45 pm:

Colza, I usually remove the lock nut and cotter pin, and hammer the side of the knuckle(where the ball joint/tie rod end)goes into the knuckle, it will release the joints (they are tapered to fit snugly).

By bruce (63.26.83.116) on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 06:22 am:

colza, this is how I do mine, I take the nut for the rod end and run it up level with the top of the nut, take a 2 to 4 lb sledge and smack it hard, the nut protects your threads. as far as the lower ball joint, again run the nut up to the top, take a very large cold chisel and slide it between the top of the nut and the end of the cv joint, be sort of careful with the cv boot, again take your sledge a hit it. don't just tap it, smack it HARD, normally one or 2 times will do it. some think I am crazy....but it works and I don't tear my boots up.

By John S. (68.92.154.142) on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 12:16 am:

Yep, now you know a big reason why so many of us go over to the 2nd Gen system...you not only gain much larger brakes, which are considerably more resistant to warpage and fade, but you also gain the ability to swap the rotors without lunching the bearings as well. And don't let anyone tell you you can bust them apart and then reuse the bearings, because they WILL fail in short order, like 10,000 or so miles.
By the way, after getting away from that crappy way of doing the hub assemblies for years, Honda is again using that setup on some of the newer models...the word sucks comes to mind.
About the lower ball joint, you need a better tool than a fork, those suck too. I have a Honda factory tool...wasn't cheap, but considering how many times I have used it, and the fact that I never hurt the boots with it, it was WELL worth the price. Plus it makes the job a snap too.

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.163) on Thursday, April 28, 2005 - 09:18 pm:

So you have to push the bearings out to get the brake disk off?! Dear god whos stupid idea was that! Oh well.

Next question then. Im now going to swap the whole front knuckles off my 1200, whats the easiest was to pop the rod end and lower ball joint out without messing up the rubber? I have a fork but its the wrong size for these and just smashes the rubber to bits =/

By Colza (Colza) (219.88.30.163) on Thursday, April 28, 2005 - 08:58 pm:

This may be a stupid question, but how the hell do you get the brake disks off?! Mine has excessive scoring on the back, makes disgusting noises, and needs replacing. So much for just taking the caliper off and then sliding off the brake disk =/ any tips?