ok I ended up just replacing the needles and seats on the carb and now I have another problem.
car is running really lean. acts like a vac leak almost. the car is hardly driveable doesn't idle very well at some times oether times thecar idles at a good 2000rpms. if I give it gas it just sits there and stumbles and falls flat on it's face while other times it might move somewhat but still doesn't feel right.


I know if I spray carb cleaner down the carb the idle speed rises quite a bit and I tried spraying around the carb but it seems just about anywhere I spray sometimes it raises the idle speed othertimes it just doesn't do a thing so I'm having no luck tracking it down so far


what do I do guys? I can't get a job because I have no transportation right now I'm almost out of money and about to lose my place to stay and I'm lost on how to fix this.

please guys I getting a little desperate here any one know what I might have done wrong or how to fix it?

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.168.19.81) on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 04:40 pm:

yeah already talked to one guy about either removing it or if nothing else plugging it. I always hated that little blip the car gets when I'm trying to upshift since I can't upshift as smooth and there is no engine braking that pisses me off also. but that is fixed soon enough
what about the other dashopt that does something with the choke or something like that? can I remove that as well?

what is this isolater your talking about?

and I don't have the sight but I'm sure I cna still get the float set fairly decent with the info I found here.


and last question I should have about this though it is kind of unrelated.
these cars have an EGR correct?
can that be removed and would there be any pros or cons from it?

By username (67.188.117.71) on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 04:22 pm:

I have seen basically two types of plastic floats- a softer plastic (ussually white and tends to be in the later cars, like 2Gs) and a harder variety (black, which I only found in the 1Gs like yours). In my experience, the black ones are more likely to crack.

Yeah, give them the shake test (listen/feel for fuel inside), the float test and carefully inspect around the casting flash. When cracked, they also sound a bit dead when thumped with your fingernail.

As far as the rebuild goes, I found it fairly easy- of course this depends heavily on your skill level. There a lot of small items to keep track of and setting the float level can be a bit of a pain, especially if you do not have glass windows on the carb (but I believe yours should have the windows). Just make sure you blast out every hole in the carb really well. Many of the passages are quite small and easily trap water and/or garbage. Just use the gaskets bare as they come from the factory- no goo of any kind. Make sure to check the throttle busings for wear and use a new isolator when you reinstall.

I never had any problem with difficult to remove/easily broken items- but again that may just be me. The throttle linkage, along with the dashpots, do make for a complicated arraingment, however, it just takes time. You may wish to remove the throttle retard dashpot (I've forgotten the Honda name for it) to make driving a bit more pleasant. The dashpot I am refering to is the one that delays the closing of the throttle for a few seconds (even though you may have already released the throttle). That little dashpot makes things like matching RPMs otherwise impossible.

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.148.104.94) on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 01:17 am:

the floats don't seem to be the hollow plastic once but these weird black pieces that I almost would say are solid but I am going to put the float in a little fuel tomorrow and see if they actually float or if they sink

when I looked at the o-rings on the seat they where NASTY. they sat flat with the seat itself some one o fthe orings had little cracks and hairs comming off also looked like they where one or two sizes too large.


no rtv already aware of that one just plan on using the normal gasket stuff

but how much am I getting myself into here with rebuilding one? is it really that hard or not too bad?
anything that breaks easily or bends if taken apart or put together the wrong way?


if nothing else I can just replace the o-rings and clean the seats and go I'm sure but figure while I'm in there might as well do the whole thing but if it is going to be more hassle then what it's worth I won't touch it.

By username (67.188.117.71) on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 09:00 pm:

Have you checked the floats? Sounds like you may have a cracked one. When I used to work on CVCCs way back when, I used to see a lot of cracked floats- check that first.

Gotchas? Uh, be careful not to loose, forget, etc the plethora of o-rings and plastic goodies. Definitely don't do what my friend did- use RTV to help seal the carb!!!

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.148.179.197) on Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 04:16 pm:

I'm doing a carb rebuild for my 76 accord.
started out with some flooding into the venturi area as well as one of the inner bolt covers getting gas in it and the main float and when adjusting the float screws they wouldn't always have an effect sometimes fuel would seep past them onto the top of the carb.
was going to just clean the needle and seat and replace the o-rings for the float but figured I might be able to pull a full rebuild off.


this is for the most part my first rebuild of a carb other then a quadrajet I did way back in the day.

are there any gotch ya's that I need to worry about here. or other things I should look for?
any advice you guys can give me?