Jdupre...I would suggest taking it to a head shop and let them do it, they have the tools to get them out. The shop I take mine to took mine out and replaced the seals.just my 2 cents worth.

By Jdupre (Jdupre) (208.176.144.238) on Monday, May 23, 2005 - 10:15 am:

There was no way in hell that the aux valves were going to be pulled out of this head! I ended up hammering them out from the back-side using a small piece of hardwood and a big hammer. (This is an EM1 head, with the jets in the aux chambers. This method would be impossible on the earlier heads since you can't get to the back-side of the chamber.) To remove the aux chambers from the valve I had to clamp the valve body in a vise and take a pair of vise-grips to twist the chamber off. It took a LOT of force. Carbon build-up had really fused the two parts together. Once cleaned with a wire wheel I found that the chamber and valve body have quite a bit of clearance between them. A nice big space for carbon to build up.

- Joe

By Frankaj (Frankaj) (4.242.9.201) on Sunday, May 22, 2005 - 06:19 pm:

Hi Joe,

I have pulled the auxiliary valves out of a few of high mileage heads with out any special tools. Naturally there is nothing like using the right tool but the following has worked for me with out bending any valve stems.

I use is a couple of stout screw drivers opposite each other in the upper portion of the valve spring and pry them out. Use equal leverage on both sides when prying. As to not damage any surrounding surfaces I use small hard wood blocks as to gain a more favorable prying fulcrum. It also may be to your advantage to put a little penetrating oil in first as it may soften things up a bit.

The hard part I have found is getting the inner thin copper gaskets out with out scratching its mating sealing surface in the head. To aid in this I reworked the working end of a pair of old needle nose pliers so when the are opened they slide/hook under the old copper seal and then I can pull them out.
As you have the head off you can carefully tap the end of the flame cup after the auxiliary valve is out and at least get the upper one out.

As for lining the cup up properly with the spark plug hole during reassembly I use a steel rod that closely matches the large hole size in the flame cup and insert this rod through the sparkplug hole and cup. This prevents the cup from turning when you torque the auxiliary valve back in place.

Good luck!

By Jdupre (Jdupre) (24.5.152.32) on Saturday, May 21, 2005 - 10:34 am:

What does your snap-on tool attach to? Are you basically yanking the valve assy out via the valve stem??? There is really nothing to grab onto other than the spring and/or spring retainer.

I was thinking I might try to bang out the valve assembly AND the aux chamber from the back side with a wood dowel and a hammer, but that will be a last resort. Obviously my head is off the block right now.

(For my block rebuild I ordered a Ishino head gasket kit from buyautoparts.com. I was surprised to find that it wasn't just the manifold and head gasget that I got for $70, but all of the valve seals o-rings and other gaskets to rebuild the whole head. So... might as well!)

- Joe

PS: And yes, you don't need the "special tool" as described in the service manual to remove the nut. A 21mm deep socket works fine.

By John S. (66.143.35.78) on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 07:48 pm:

There is a large nut which holds the entire CVCC valve assembly in place, but over the years they usually cycle themselves in pretty tight. Removing the nut, is only the begining, because unless you are the luckiest SOB on the planet you will still have to forceably pop the valve assem. out of the head...it is also held in by an "O" ring, and a couple of shim gaskets similar to those found on spark plugs. You WILL need to replace these pieces as well or forget about compression.
The tool I use is from Snap-On, #CJ93-6B,cheap only about 13 bucks. It threads onto a makeshift slidehammer I made out of a cheap bodymans tool (it threads onto the end), and It pops them right out with one or two tries. Most important thing here is don't try to pry them out because the valves are super easy to bend, and if you bend one you have just lost your paddle(if you know what I mean.} You also must be sure that the valve is refitted facing the proper direction as well.
I would not get into this job unless you have a manual to follow, and depending on the age of the motor etc, it might be worth replacing the seals on all the auxiliaries at the same time since you have to pull the rocker assembly off even to do one. Good Luck on your voyage.
As an additional side note, CVCC engines that are burning a lot of oil, but read good compression can often be cured by replacing the seals and "O" rings on the CVCC valves. And I do mean it can make a MAJOR change in oil consumption...won't allways work, but it IS worth a try if you are dealing with an oil consumption problem, and can't figure out how the oil is getting away.

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 03:31 pm:

I'm pretty sure the whole assembly just screws out. There is a special 21mm wrench that's used, but a 21mm deep-well socket may do the job just as well. From the assembly manual the only alignment pin is a special tool that gets removed once everything is aligned.

By Jdupre (Jdupre) (208.176.144.238) on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 02:33 pm:

Anyone have any tips or tricks in removing the aux valves from a CVCC head?

I have removed the auxilliary valve nuts, but the valve assemblies are really stuck in there. They can't be twisted out, since there is an alignment pin. They have to be pulled straight out.

There doesn't appear to be any way to pry them out, and I'm afraid I'm going to break or bend them...

- joe