my ignition switch is kinda locked right now in the on spot but I do know when I attach the batt cable I hear a click from the carb area.
as far as the plugs they are sooty but also seem a little wet also and have a little gas smell to them.

I am curious though since I am getting a coil tomorrow in hopes that this might help what are the specs supposed to be for the coil?

the points I gapped to I think it was .022 which set the dwell to 48-50* checked with a dwell meter
as far as timing light I can try to borrow one but I know the timing is further then stock being I am running premium in there and it really seemed to like it more then the regular and still have a half tank of that left.

the idle mixture screw only turns about 2 turns and then it just stops like it is hitting something. doesnt' seem to want to move but then again I don't want to crank on it either.
and I know I can turn the thing all the way in or all the way out and it doesn't seem to change teh way the car runs very much


another thing I found weird is the car can run without the choke on only when first started. once it has started to warm up the choke needs to be on to just about the second detent though even with the choke on that much it only idles at about 1200rpms or so and it runs really rought still.

but hope getting the coil will help out here

By 79EK1 (63.195.80.15) on Sunday, May 29, 2005 - 09:29 pm:

Tracy, The CVCC Aux chamber mixture is very rich and the black soot is normal. The white powder stuff on them is odd, though. The resistance spec on my 79 Accord is 25,000 ohms max per plug wire, so your numbers are okay. Just check the insulation for worn spots and the metal connectors for corrosion. At some point, you should borrow a timing light and dwell meter to check your ignition timing and points gap. If your points are pitted you can try using a point file to clean them up, then polish them with 600 grit paper, clean with alcohol, then lube. Also, your plug gap spec is 0.028 - 0.031".

My experience is that my stock carb runs best when the mixture screw is out 2 to 2.5 turns. In too far, and the engine will idle lean. Out too far, and it runs rich, and the mixture screw can fall out.

You should also check to make sure the fuel cutoff solenoid is working. It's on the back of the carb near the idle mixture screw. Check that the electrical lead is connected, and that the solenoid clicks when the ignition key is turned on.

Good luck. Dan

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.197.154.251) on Friday, May 27, 2005 - 10:52 pm:

so far I have used quite a bit of carb cleaner before and after I did the carb stuff, have a new fuel filter on there now, air filter is still in really good shape. no dirt on either side really the plugs where new plugs but as I said they are black now. I remember checking the points actually before all this and they where a little worn as well just not quite this bad.

as far as running rich on the fuel. not generally. usually I have to keep adding carb cleaner to keep the thing running so generally it runs lean other then the few times I readjusted the float bowls.
but have a new cap, the old rotor is still good shape, also have a new condensor, going to buy some more plugs and another set of points for the timing being when I can, also going to get some plug wires.
that should at least take care of most of the ignition system till hopefully I can spring for a dizzy that doesn't use points

By vccivic (24.85.232.159) on Friday, May 27, 2005 - 10:57 am:

Bad points could be the fact your running rich on the fuel, which sounds like a direct result of the carb work you've been doing. Inside the dizzy cap the points are burnt which in time is normal. I would recommend a full tune up, get a new air cleaner, the plugs with new wires, rotor & cap, fuel filters and a can of carb clean. The dizzy cap and rotor can also just be lightly sanded to get back to nice copper....saves some money...

I know when I bought my 82 and it had to be a daily driver I did all the above and then paid a shop 30 bucks for timing and carb adjust...it's been a year now and it runs great and pass's aircare no problem.

Your on the right track it sounds like...

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (207.200.116.137) on Thursday, May 26, 2005 - 10:35 pm:

well just took a look at the spark plugs and they are really black right now with white powder stuff on all 4 of them

my points are now pitted fairly bad after maybe 3-4 weeks of driving on them and we removed one of the spark plug wires and yeah it did change the way the car ran but not that much
when removing another spark plug wire the engine bogged down quite a bit more then the first one did. only removed two though
another thing I'm curious about though is I took them off not with my bare hand but with a wrench tht had a rubberish handle that had an old grease rag around it. if I touched the body I would feel a zap is that normal even though I'm going though I have all that stuff between me and the wires? gap was set to .35

I tested the resistance on those two wires that I took off also
one was 7600 ohms the other one I think was 6500 ohms. is that ok? and as far as the cap itself it isn't really white or anything is side but you can see a little wear on it.

thought all this was carburation issue since it seemed to start after I took the top of the carb off

so now the question is why are the points going out so fast? are my spark plug wires acting normal? and what else can I check with all this while I am at it since I don't have much money. and could this be part of the bouncing tach issue I have that I posted about previously?

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.172.42.204) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 01:33 pm:

the choke cable is all the way pushed it and looking at the choke flap does open straight up
the throttle cable has a decent amount of slack in it
I would say 1/2-1" of movment in the throttle

By username (68.116.93.157) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 01:12 pm:

Tracy, check your email.

By vccivic (24.85.232.159) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 12:44 pm:

worse case scenario you run it with high revs until you can get it fixed. It use's more gas...but'll keep goin.

Is the choke all the way in and the car is warm?

Throttle cable isn't adjusted to high?

I will check my haynes manual and see what I could do to help.

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.169.15.196) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 12:25 pm:

ok I tried playing with the idle mixture screw and it doesn't seem to do much for the way the car runs right now
I once again tried adjusting the floats again using the 5/8 turn method and still runs the same
tried adjusting the idle speed and it just wants to move around and run inconsistent sometimes stalling sometimes running but never the same thing. I've tried to spray everything I have seen with carb cleaner and no change in idle speed unless I'm spraying straight into the carb and then if it is running too rich it just dies or if it thinks it should run lean then it just raises the idle rpm a little bit


but nothing consistent and still won't hold an idle very well unless at least 1300rpms or higher and even then it is a little shaky

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.147.107.39) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 11:10 am:

I would like to take it to a shop but I'm broke and have no job as it sits right now and till I can get this car running I can't really get a job either being I live far enough out of town to ride a bike or anything

going to try messing with the mixture screws and see what happens though

By vccivic (24.85.232.159) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 09:39 am:

Dark's right, I got my carb done in my 82 by a local shop with an old salty dog owner (used to race 510's and civics in his glory days) and it cost 30 bucks CND and they showed me how to do it...the car runs great and pass's aircare no problem. Just a thought, they are finiky little units, especially if it's a cvcc from what I hear.

By DaRk (66.50.181.168) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 08:18 am:

Yes..I am.. what Carbs are You using? If it's too difficult take it to a carb. shop they should adjust it , and I doubt it'll cost alot

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.153.198.188) on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 12:06 am:

which screws are you talking about the float screws or the idle speed and idle mixture screws?


I haven't touched the mixture screw because it is kinda a pain to get to and it was running fine with the mixture screw where it was before I took the top of the carb off. so far I have only been adjusting the idle speed screw and the float adjustment screws

By DaRk (66.50.181.22) on Tuesday, May 24, 2005 - 10:14 pm:

Hey Tracy... are you adjusting both screws *throttle and the one close to the fire wall) ?

By Tracy (Rx7speed) (172.153.187.81) on Tuesday, May 24, 2005 - 09:51 pm:

I can't seem to get the car running right at this point. when I adjuts the float levels I'm either running too rich and fuel comes out the aux barrel or I'm running too lean and need carb cleaner being sprayed down the barrels to keep the car running
doesn't seem I can get my idle much lower then about 1300rpms right now with no electrical load

and I saw the method online to where you adjust the floats counter clockwise till the motor dies and then turn 5/8 turn clockwise
only thing though when I try that on the aux float it doesn't kill it instead it just starts overflowing but keeps on running

what can I do guys cause I'm lost right now and I need to get this car running ASAP