Don't get mad, but i have a weber question
Civic1200 Discussion Board: : Don't get mad, but i have a weber question
don, that makes sense about the regulator. i'm sure i got the low pressure regulator. as i've said, i have a holley guage. red pump is on the way. thanks.
"it doesn't make sense that the needle could be reading above 4 psi at all with the regulator there" Why doesn't it make sense? A regulator is not a cure all and if you unseat the ball in the regulator it will leak pressure past and since there is no return its stuck there until the needle and seat open.... So if it does this allot you can see pressures higher than the regulator is set at. Link to regulators If you bought the upper two your SOL, it will take a new spring to convert it to the low pressure model and the blue pump cant be lowered from 14 to 2 psi. If they all ready slipped up as in glens case you will have to replace the bypass spring inside the fuel pump with one from a red. I cut the bypass spring in my red pump to soften it even more and stretched it so now it is limited to about 4 PSI and its regulated down to 2psi... works very smoothly and I have never run out of fuel volume.
Gauges, the no names are the worst! Buy a name brand (not summit brand!) and you will be ok. I think mine is a VDO
The Holley fuel regulators with a return bleed line are modified, its not just adding the return line.. The guts are changed So if you cant get a fuel pump to operate properly I would not advise you to tackle anything this complex.
don, the pump sopposedly worked fine on the cvcc carb. it came on the car. most likely the accord pump. i was just using it until i got the holley red. it only does the butterfly thing sometimes, then it is just sits at 3 psi. i could not find a lower range guage anywhere. it doesn't make sense that the needle could be reading above 4 psi at all with the regulator there. i was looking for a 1-5psi gauge at first, but couldn't find one. what brand of gauge would you suggest?
also, i got the brass fittings from an auto parts store. the only way to hook the gauge up with what they had at the parts store was do what i did. i only stated that so it may ring a bell for someone as being a no-no or not matter. i wasn't sure about doing it.
Wrong pump and regulator
Low pressure pump
Still need the low pressure regulator to reduce pressure.
You got the Wrong Pump! In the instuctions, it says its a high pressure pump... and your still wondering why it wont go below 7 psi???
i have the holley blue pump and the reg that comes with it
so the reg is designed for the pump
i am going to install a return line and see if that will fix it
If Your pump is Bouncing 6-9 PSI then why is is on the Civic? You only need 3 psi ??? Its not the regulators faut if you cant install the pump it was designed for?
"my dgv doesn't have threaded hose inserts."
Who Said it Did? From your discription it sounds like you just went to the plumbing store...Not good if you want things to seal
"the brass shavings from rethreading get the reg. messed up. i just opened mine up and blew it out with compessed air. there was a good amount of brass shavings in the bottom"
don, i havn't put in the red pump in yet and i've heard of people having problems with the gold boxxy ones. i made sure to get the 1-4 PSI reg. have you used the holley guage? do you think it is quality? i was really just pissed off, venting, and found an excuse to blame my lack of mechanical prowess on a part. i'm sure if i had used a thread sealer in the first place i wouldn't of gotten the shavings. i'll keep in mind about the aluminum fittings. i have the guage between the regulator and the carb(no filter betwen the reg. and the gauge right now). i wish the regulator had come with more involved instructions. all it said was clockwise equals more, counterclockwise equals less. i'll try your method. hopefully the guage isn't shot or crap.
the fluctuation isn't minor, its avery rapid 6-7 PSI range. say 2-9 PSI like a butterfly wing. i had to make my own fitting for the gauge out of connector peices and adapters. my dgv doesn't have threaded hose inserts.
thanks.
Ok Holley pump and regulator class 101
The regulator setting will always creep abet at idle and fudge the pressure settings ....... set the pressure with the hose in a gas can and your finger over the end to just make a small stream..... the pressure does bounce around a bit because of the bypass in the pump.... the bounce you see doesn't get past the needle unless you have the pressure set too high for the application... USE A QUALITY Pressure Gauge Can tell you how many garbage ones there are that read pressures not even close..... There are two regulators one is above 5 psi and the other is below. If you don't like the pressure creep there are people that will modify the regulator with a small bleed back to the fuel tank but this costs $$ and two fuel lines are required. Fittings are pipe thread.... You use pipe sealant, (liquid Teflon)... and quality fittings = Aluminum.... never had a problem in the 100+ pumps and regulators I have used and installed for customers over the years. Of course I never got metal in there either.....
Finally its not that hard there are millions of these pumps in use with good results my 1200 in one of them as well as Teds, Johns and a few other Civic people here.
it pisses me off. i had to use form-a-gasket to get the fittings to seal. i'm not sure if they will take it back. to get the fittings in, i felt like i was going to break the damn thing. the machining for the threads is very bad. even the two bolts that hold the reg. to the mount, i had to basically retap. the edges on the inside are not smoothed out. there is residual casting all over the thing. i though $27 was a good deal... my only thought is that when you put in the fittings, and have to use the hand of god to do it, the brass shavings from rethreading get the reg. messed up. i just opened mine up and blew it out with compessed air. there was a good amount of brass shavings in the bottom. it is very simple and i could see nothing wrong. the ball bearing/spring was tight. everything seemed ok.
i didn't get a chance to test it. i will in a day or so and pass on what happens.
im also having trouble with my holley pump and reg
i cant get the pressure below 7psi no matter which way i turn the adjusting screw, this is the 4th replacement reg so im not sure about what to do now
the choke is fully open. they rest open when there is no tension. i realized that i only adjusted the resting distance on the float and not the full stroke distance. the car runs much better. the "wall" is much softer now and at a higher rpm. i'm not sure where my cam loses power, but it doesn't seem quite right yet. getting closer. i need to figure out my new regulator and gauge(both holley.) i can turn the adjuster almost al the way in and all the way out and the gauge just sits at 3PSI. then sometimes the guges starts to bounce around sparatically. the engine doesn't really refect this, though.
i've got a gold box, clicky pump. the holley red is in the mail. whole thing seems weird.
i'm just going to rebuild the carb and change jets one by one until it runs best.
does anyone know how much the air corr. jets being so much lower than spec could affect things? from what i understand, these just come into affect at full power.
thanks for your help.
by the way, has anyone ever had oil leak from where the gear shifter shaft meets the transmission?
Is the choke currently off(open)? If not, then that could be the cause of your problem. Until you get a cable, you could just remove the butterflies if you wanted to. It's a little tedious though.
jarcaf, i have the carb mounted so the choke side is towards the engine. i need to get a longer choke cable to be able to hook it up.
How's the choke doing? Is it electric/manual/nonexistant? Whenever my choke is closed(electric),
I get that very distinctive "wall" at 3k rpm. Is this kind of like what you're talking about?
i'm plannnig to do a rebuild on my 32/26 dgv. i'd like to figure out if the jetting is causing my troubles. i adjusted the float and blew out all the passage ways in the carb. it still hits this point where it seems to be getting too much gas. hits a wall. it also has a hesitation at first throttle. a rebuild is due, but the guy that i got the carb/manifold from had it on a stock 1.6 and said it ran perfect. the mains are 135/140, air corr. are 160/165, idle jets 55/30, venturies are 3.5, and accelorator pump is 50. i know these are off from the redline specs. i do have a hotter cam(Lift: 406/416 Adv. Dur.: 278/280, all i know).
to those to run a similar setup, how do these sound? replacing every jet to redline spec will be spendy and i've got the cam and plan for a header, so those should be different too.
i am getting full cable throw.
the manifold is modified a bit. the cvcc port is ground out to get more gas via the main chamber. i also have the carb mounted with the primary towards the engine. soppose the cvcc is getting too much gas?
i'm just asking for thoughts here. this stuff is kind of neat, actually.