Sorry, my bad,forgot the key word "exhaust".

By Don (63.135.203.88) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 04:12 pm:

All Ebs have valve seals on the intakes, not the exhaust. Even some Manuals from Japan show this

By yellowcivic (67.139.225.190) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 02:48 pm:

My 1200 eb2 and eb3s all have valve seal on the intakes. Never saw one without seals. Maybe a Canadian thing?

By H (24.70.95.204) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 12:32 pm:

You never heard the saying"its the nature of the beast"before? The 1200 engine does not have rubber valve stem seals so as the valve guide wears oil makes its way into the combustion chamber when the engine is at rest.As Nathan said when you first start up, it burns it all off....then as long as it starts to run clean again I wouldn't worry to much.

By DaRk (66.50.181.206) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 08:33 am:

What you mean "H" ?

By H (24.70.95.204) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 08:25 am:

With the 1200 it is the nature of the beast as they dont have vavle guide seals

By void tranist (4.159.177.119) on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 12:11 am:

Good thoughts Nathan, but I'd hope that there wouldn't be any corrosion within your engine! ;) Unless you're using water as an oil substitute.

Jonathan and Nathan both have good suggestions.

The valve seals are little rubber gromets that reside within the valve springs. After 20-30 years of heat cycles they tend to become hard and brittle and may break apart and wind up in your oil pan.

If your valve seals are bad I would worry about it. Not that your engine will take a poo but if it's not taken care of spark plugs will get fouled a lot quicker... not so bad. You take on the risk of having a lot of carbon build up within the combustion chamber... bad. And it is really a simple project with a little extra insurance. Shouldn't take more than a good afternoon. And shouldn't cost more than $30.

By Jonathan (68.193.6.173) on Saturday, June 11, 2005 - 09:19 pm:

Usually valve stem seals, but if your car is a CVCC, there's O-rings for the aux. valves that'll produce the same symptom. A big puff on startup, but then goes away.

By nathan (24.81.128.24) on Saturday, June 11, 2005 - 09:13 pm:

your driving an old car ;)

From what I understand the most basic reason, if the car otherwise is fairly clean running...is not all the seals around the valves are in great shape, nor do they probably sit very tight with corrosion and carbon on them, so little bits of oil slowly find there way into the cylinders...then when you first start up, it burns it all off....then as long as it starts to run clean again I wouldn't worry to much.

On my old 80 accord I paid a mechanic to adjust tapits and valves etc...and no fix, in the cold winters and warm summers in Calgary he said to just change my oil accordingly and stay a bit thicker to help prevent the oil from finding those little pits and holes...you gotta let it warm up a bit more, but it helped more than spending money...and it got me todo oil changes regularly.

By H (24.70.95.204) on Saturday, June 11, 2005 - 05:37 pm:

You really should just post all your questions in one post under one username 24 85 61 86

By naiveGuy (24.85.61.86) on Saturday, June 11, 2005 - 05:26 pm:

What does it mean when a car is blowing some blue smoke when it fisrt starts?