Build Kurts 1978 Honda Civic Trailer

[Kurt]

Started to shape th foam for the top. It’s a messy job but I think it will give me a bit of the profile I am after

[Sami6]

Thats a cool idea for the top. It'll look great.

[John S.]

What type of resin will use for a hard copy?

[Kurt]

I think I am just going with canvass over the top of this. It would make a great mold for an actual tonneau cover bit it would be too tough to get a good seal with the contour (gaps) of the shell. For now I am adding this to get the right curve under the canvass

[Thor]

Kurt
Why not cover it in closed-cell foam to give a padded finish when covered with a vinyl fabric ?
Old hot-rod skills never die.
2 locating pins or hinges at one end, over-center catches at the other, crushing it down onto a sealed-cell foam section the top horizontal surface would be one option.
But then, knowing you over the years, you have probably thought of all the above or better options.
It would be a shame to spoil the lines with tie-down hooks on the flanks.
I suppose a draw-cord perimeter into a groove around the top flange could be another option.
I look forward to seeing your resolution.
keep well
Pete

[Randy]

Hinges and some hood latches would be cool too.

I love what you have done.

[Kurt]

I went with a stainless piano hing across the front to open it up. I have thought of using the top as a mould for a fiberglass tonneau but water leakage is an issue as the shell of the trailer is not entirely flat along the 4 sides.

I am using an adhesive and some plastic bolts countersunk into the foam to ensure the foam stays adhered to the aluminum. I tested it on scrap and its very secure...its mainly to add a great deal of rigidity to the aluminum.

For the marine vinyl - its boat canvass...I will use dark grey and my neighbour who is doing the work may add some thin padding if needed. It will sit flush on the foam so all contours will be maintained and then some stainless snaps around all four sides to keep it pulled tight which will keep water out, keep the shape and ensure it does not blow off!!! The boat canvass is very good stuff although its pricey!

[Kurt]

I finished the wiring for the car and trailer. I found that by using 2 led lights (signal bulbs) it does not overload the stock lighting. I already have one of the new flashers but was finding with all the headlights, brake lights and signals on it was a bit too much and the signal lights were not happy. Lower watt LED bulbs in just the trailer lights solved it completely. Works like stock now on the car and trailer. I soldered and shrink wrapped all the connections and ensured I have good grounds off each light as this is always a problem with trailers it seems.

[Kurt]

I am now working on the hitch for the car these days.

Being a '78 I am contending with the pressurized oil filled bumper shocks so no welding to those! You can see in the photo above I am using the trailer to mock up the hitch as they have the same back end!

I have used round stock to make new bumper mounts. This of course required new mounting plates too which I made out of 1/8" steel plate. These took a while to fabricate to ensure the mounting holes all lined up. I also added an additional one at the bottom of the plates so that I can add an extra bolt that I will tie into some 1/8" steel angle iron brackets that I will weld to the bottom of the unibody frame. I may add an additional bolt to tie into a small plate welded on the inside of the spare tire well as insurance.

The small 1" receiver will be mounted to the cross member and peak out just below the bumper. I really wanted to make the actual receiver removable but with so little clearance I won't be able to install enough brackets to bolt it too while ensuring its rigid and strong. So the receiver will be welded on as most are. I do plan on removing the hitch assembly when not towing the trailer and re-installing the stock bumper mounts anyway....bit more work but I don't want to see the receiver when not towing a trailer.

I have it just tacked for now. My little 110 welder is a little light for the thicker plate so I will have it all welded up when done

[Sami6]

Looking good Kurt. Gonna be ready for May long?